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PRACTICAL 
LAUNDRY WORK 



PRACTICAL 
LAUNDRY WORK 

FOR HOME AND SCHOOL 



BY 

LOUISE WETENHALL 

TEACHER OF TRADE LAUNDRY WORK, THE BOROUGH POLYTECHNIC 
LVSTITUTION, LONDON, S.E. 

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY 

ETHEL R. HAMHKIDGE 

TEACHER OF BLACKBOARD DRAWING, THE NORTHAMPTON POLYTECHNIC 

INSTITUTION, LONDON, E.C. ; AUTHOR OF "BLACKBOARD DIAGRAM 

DRAWING FOR TEACHERS OF NEEDLECRAFT," ETC., ETC. 

AND A FOREWORD BY 
MRS. BURGWIN 



NEW YORK 

E. P. BUTTON & COMPANY 

681 FIFTH AVENUE 



-^t^^^ 

^^A^ 



Printed by 
Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., London 



"V. 



\ 






FOREWORD. 

My first thought on seeing this new book on " Laundry Work " was — Can 
anything new or interesting be written on this subject ? After reading the 
work I venture to predict that its readers will find it both useful and interesting, 
not only to those who teach the subject, but to all housewives who are anxious 
to know how household linen should be cared for and handled. 

If we turn to the chapters on " Sorting " and " Folding " (the latter a 
particularly well-written and carefully illustrated secticn), we find all the 
necessary information so clearly and concisely put that both the trade expert 
(to whom the book will be especially valuable) and the " Domestic Subjects' 
Instructress " cannot fail to do and to teach the work most thoroughly. 

From the very clear and telling drawings the teacher can readily illustrate 
her lesson upon the blackboard with sketches and diagrams, which provide 
an ever helpful aid towards securing the interest of the pupils. 

If the methods, so minutely described in this book, for the cleaning and 
preservation of the household linen are carried out, washing day will cease to 
be the burden it is at present frequently considered. 

The book shows a thoroughly practical knowledge of the subject, and I wish 
it every success. 

E. M. BURGWIN. 



PREFACE. 

The main object of this work is to advance the cause of cleanliness, daintiness, 
and self-respect. Its simplicity and the extent of its detail are due to a desire 
to help the beginner, both at home and in the trade ; and the methods have 
been explained with considerable minuteness, so that students and intending 
teachers may find in it all the assistance they are likely at any time to require. 

In the Laundry business, bright, intelligent girls are in great demand. 
Beginning as a worker, such a girl, if she acquires a sound knowledge of the 
technical details of routine and organization, will soon earn promotion and find 
herself in a position of some authority, managing others as the head of a 
department. Skilled workers, too, have no difficulty in securing remunerative 
posts ; indeed, of late years, the demand has always exceeded the supply, and 
employers have frequently been compelled to engage workers of inferior calibre. 

The reason for the shortage of labour has lain largely in prejudice. It has 
been stated and believed that the work is unhealthy and monotonous, and 
the hours inord:n2.tcly long. The latter part of the charge has some foundation 
in fact, but many leading employers have come to recognise its truth, and there 
is now a tendency for the hours to be less long. Long practical experience, 
however, qualifies me to declare emphatically that the standaid of health 
among laundry workers is high, and the occupation is not necessarily at all 
injurious or fatiguing. The work, being largely manual, calls for considerable 
initial activity and strength. As regards monotony, no one with any knowledge 
of the work could ever pronounce it to be tedious : there is such a constant 
change, and the various articles pass so rapidly from hand to hand, that the 
workers' interest seldom slackens. 

Teachers of Evenmg and Elementary classes ma}' accomplish much by 
preparing girls in a business-like way with a groundwork of the essential 
details which are set forth in this book. Hitherto, many of the girls trained 



VI PREFACE. 

at Laundry Centres have not proved altogether acceptable to the trade, the 
methods learned being considerably different from those in actual practical, 
everyday use in a laundry. I shall be gratified if this httle volume serves as 
one step towards the more practical equipment of such students. 

My thanks are due to Miss E. R. Hambridge for her skill and ready under- 
standing in preparing the drawings, which so clearly elucidate the text besides 
being purposely so drawn that they can be copied on the blackboard or prepared 
on brown paper for class demonstration, and for her other kind assistance and 
advice ; and to Mr. F. E. Mekelburg, whose care and dexterity have brought 
out the essential details so prominently in his excellent photographs. 

L. W. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAP. 


PAGE 


I-'OREWORD . 


iii 


Preface 


V 


I. Sorting and Preparing L 




NEN FOR THE WaSH 


. 9 


II. Trade Notes on Sorting 


. n 


II. Materi.\ls for Use in Wash 




iNG. The Removal of 


Stains. Utensils — 




to soften water 


. 15 


soaps 


. 16 


BLUE 


. 16 


GUM ARABIC 


. 16 


GLYCERINE 


. 16 


ACIDS : THEIR USE 


. 17 


TO REMOVE INK STAINS AN 


3 


IRON RUST 


. 17 


TO REMOVE STAINS ON TABL 




LINEN 


17 


ACETIC ACID 


18 


SALT 


18 


TO REMOVE MUD STAINS 


18 


REMOVAL OF GREASE, PAINT 




ETC. 


19 


TO REMOVE CANDLE GREASI 


: 19 


BATHS 


19 


GALVANISED PAILS 


20 


WASHING-BOARDS 


20 


WRINGERS AND MANGLES 


20 


CLOTHES LINES . 


21 


CLOTHES PEGS . 


21 


CLOTHES BASKETS 


22 


" EMPIRE " DRYER 


22 


CLOTHES HORSES 


23 


IRONING BLANKET 


23 


FLANNEL PAD 


24 


DAMPENING RAGS 


24 


IRONING TABLE . 


24 


FL.\T-IRONS 


25 


IRON STANDS 


27 


POLISHING IRONS 


27 


HEATING IRONS . 


28 


IRONHOLDERS 


28 


SLEEVE BOARD . 


28 


GOFFERING IRONS 


30 


LACE PUNCH 


30 


EGG IRON .... 


31 



The 

AND 



AND 



CHAP. 

IV. Starches : Recipes. 

Tinting of Laces 
Curtains — 
" RAW " starch 

BOILED starch . 
CREAMING CURTAINS 
LACES 

(1) CREAM STARCH 

(2) PERMANGANATE OF POT 
ASH 

(3) SAFFRON 

(4) TEA AND COFFEE 

V. Washing and Starching 
Cotton and Household 
Linen — 
rinsing . . . . 

blueing . . 
wringing 
starching 
VI. Drying ; Folding ; Mangling 
VII. Ironing AND Folding House- 
hold Linen — 
table cloths . 
serviettes 

FANCY folding 

TRAY cloths 

d'oVLIES AND SMALL MATS 

SIDEBOARD CLOTHS AND 

DUCHESSE COVERS . 
AFTERNOON TEA CLOTHS 
BED-SPREADS AND COUNTER 

PANES . 
TURKISH TOWELS 
PILLOW-SLIPS 

LACE AND MUSLIN CURTAIN- 
NET CURTAINS . 
MADRAS CURTAINS 

VIII. Preparing Fine Work for 

Ironing — 

STARCHING C0LL.\RS . 
STARCHING SHIRTS 
WAISTCOATS 
EVENING TIES 

Ix. Processes Used in Finish- 
ing — 
plain ironing . 



32 
33 

34 
34 

34 
34 
34 



38 
38 
39 
39 
41 



45 

47 
50 
50 
50 

50 
51 

51 
51 

51 
52 
52 
53 



55 
55 
57 
59 



60 



CONTENTS. 



GOFFERING 
CRIMPING . 
PLEATING . 
POLISHING 
LACE PUNCHING 
EGG IRONS 

X. Ironing and Folding Body 
Linen — 
night-dresses . 
chemises .... 
camisoles 

knickers .... 
cotton combinations 
handkerchiefs 
XI. Ironing Muslin and Lace 
Garments — 
muslin blouses 
muslin dresses 

children's H.\TS and BON- 
NETS .... 

XII. Ironing and Polishing 
Shirts, Collars, Waist- 
coats — 

-ironing a white shirt 

removing blisters . 

polishing 

folding a starched shirt 

collars and cuffs . 

" curling " . 

white W.\ISTCO.\TS 

evening TIES . 

XIII. Washing and Drying Flan- 

nels, Blankets, Socks, 
and Stockings — 

stockings .\nd socks 

bl.\nkets 

XIV. Ironing and Finishing Flan- 

nels — 
ironing flannel shirts 

TO FOLD the SHIRT . 
IRONING FLANNEL TROUSERS 
IRONING A FLANNEL CO.\T . 

XV. Washing and Drying 
Coloured Articles — 
dresses and blouses 



61 
64 
64 
65 
67 
68 



69 
79 
83 
88 
91 
94 



97 
100 



100 



102 
104 
105 
lOtS 
lOS 
109 
109 
111 



115 
116 



118 
124 
128 
133 



141 



CHAP. PACE 
CHINTZ COVERS AND COL- 
OURED BED-SPREADS . 143 
CURTAINS AND hangings . 143 

XVI. Ironing Coloured Articles — 

CRETONNE COVERS . . 148 
COLOURED CUSHION COVERS 148 

X\II. Washing and Ironing of 
Silks, Satins, Chiffons. 
ETC., and the Tre.\tment 
OF Real Lace and 
Gloves — 

NINON AND CHIFFO.N . . 151 

shantung or tussore silks 151 
fine woollen delaines . 152 
cleaning and finishing of 

LACE . . . .153 

FABRIC AND WASHING LEA- 
THER GLOVES . .154 

XVIII. Washing and Finishing 

" Eider Downs," Wad- 
ded Dressing Gowns, 
.\nd Woollen Co.\ts — 
eider down quilts . .155 

wadded garments . .156 

knitted coats . . . 158 

knitted woollen caps . 160 
XIX. Washing and Finishing 
Velveteens, Etc. — 
velveteens . . . 162 

velvet RIBBONS . . 162 

XX. Washing or Wet-cleaning 
Serge and Cloth Gar- 
ments — 
dark serges . . . 164 

WET cleaning . . . 165 

pressing the coat . . 165 

XXI. P.\cking Laundered Arti- 
cles — 
household linen . . 166 

wearing apparel .\nd 

fancy articles . . 166 

bloltses .... 167 

SKIRTS .... 168 

FLA.NNEL TROUSERS . . 168 

XXII. Trade Notes on Packing . 170 



LAUNDRY WORK 



CHAPTER I 

SORTING AND PREPARING LINEN FOR THE WASH 

It is absolutely essential, before commencing to wash linen, to look over and 
sort out all articles that are to be laundered, carefully separating the different 
classes of linen from each other. In commercial laundries this sorting out, 
•or separating of different classes of garments, is done in a special department ; 
but quite as much care is needed for home washing as for business purposes, 
if the best possible results are to be obtained. It is also necessary to examine 
garments when left off for washing, in case pins or needles may have been 
carelessly left in. Another essential point is the turning out of all pockets in 
aprons, dresses, trousers, coats, waistcoats, etc. Much damage may be 
caused to other articles through odd things that may have been left in pockets, 
and washed in them. Even a thread of coloured cotton will cause endless 
trouble, while lead pencils, metal buttons, or anything made up of leather, 
•are simply a nightmare to the person who has to remedy the results of such 
carelessness in the sorting. 

. It will be found perfectly easy to do the separating if a little method is 
introduced. 

First of all, collect the soiled linen together. Then sort out all — 

1. Best white work, such as shirts, collars, cuffs, and handkerchiefs. 

2. Fine starched work, such as frocks, blouses, pinafores, bonnets, 
camisoles, etc. 

■Classes 1 and 2 can invariably be both washed and boiled together. 

3. .\11 body linen, night-dresses, nightshirts, pillow-slips, etc. 

4. Table linen, toilet covers, tray cloths, serviettes, etc. 

5. Sheets, towels, bath towels, etc. 

6. Tea towels, rubbers, etc. 

7. Flannel garments. 

8. Coloured garments. 

The reason for separating the different classes of linen can quite easily be 
understood. Take, for instance, the first and second sets alluded to, i.e., 
shirts, collars, lace pieces, etc. These articles are usually of fairly fine texture, 
-and would, if mixed with coarser and possibly much dirtier linen, become 
quite a bad colour. The fineness of the articles also necessitates their being 
kept separate from larger and heavier garments, as there is a possibility of 
their getting tangled, and thereby torn. 

In class 3 above, there is the necessity for keeping this work to itself on 

9 



10 LAUNDRY WORK 

account of such garments being worn near the skin, and receiNnng a large 
amount of the greasy moisture exuded from the body- Table linen of any 
description is best washed absolutely b}? itself. This type of linen is quite 
easily cleaned, a very small amount of friction being needed, though stains, 
of course, will require attention. The articles in class 6 it is absolutely 
necessar}' to keep apart, owing to the nature of the dirt in them. 

Muslin or lace curtains should be kept separate and treated in quite a special 
manner. It is best, on removing them from the windows, to steep them in 
cold water straight away, thus preventing the dust and smoke from pene- 
trating other articles. However often curtains are washed, they are bound 
to contain a certain amount of soot and dust from the atmosphere, which can 
onlj' be eradicated by immersing these articles in cold water, and changing 
this cold water several times. If this is done before washing is commenced, 
time will be saved, as they will then be ready to wash after white articles. It 
is a good plan, if a bath is available with water laid on, to put the curtains 
into the bath, remove the plug, turn the water on, and let it flow through them. 
By doing this, the dust is more easily removed, and there is much less 
risk of tearing them, since they have not to be moved about. Curtains and 
hangings are always more or less rotted with the sun and dust, and therefore 
they require extremely careful handling. 

It must be distinctly understood that all flannel and coloured garments 
must be kept separate from white cotton goods. This is a most important 
part of successful laundering. It is not at all unusual to see a person com- 
mencing to wash with all sorts and conditions of articles mixed up in a 
haphazard fashion. Coloured and white garments are washed together, and 
then surprise is felt that they have not a clear appearance when finished. 
In Laundry work, forethought is as much required as actual technical 
knowledge. This is, perhaps, rather a broad statement ; but it is likely that 
the average housewife would make a far better laundress if she exercised a- 
little more care, however limited the knowledge she possesses. 

If a supply of hot water is easily obtainable otherwise, it is unnecessary 
to light the copper until actually commencing to wash ; the first and best 
lot of clothes can then be put into the copper as they are washed, and beings 
slowly brought to the boil, will acquire a far better colour than if put into 
quite hot water. 

As a broad rule, the writer does not approve of soaking, but there are occa- 
sions when, by its means, the actual washing is made easier and the final results 
are more satisfactory. For instance, body linen should not be soaked in 
cold water, owing to the presence of the greasy moisture already' referred to. 
If, however, it is extraordinarily dirt}', soaking in lukewarm soapy water 
will be found to assist greatly the process of washing. It has been proved 
on more than one occasion that lukewarm soft water is far better than the 
so largely used cold " break down." 



CHAPTER II 

TRADE NOTES ON SORTING 

It is an established fact that no laundry, however well equipped, is satisfactory 
without a good system in the sorting-room. Round this department, and 
proceeding from it, is either the success or failure of the business. It can be 
quite well understood that unless it sends out clean and well-finished work, 
no laundry will keep its clientele, but on the other hand, however well the 
work may be turned out, if mistakes are constantly being made, customers, 
however lenient, will sooner or later become tired out, and take their custom 
elsewhere. 

Many launderers have the idea that, so long as the sorting-room is of a fair 
size in proportion to the work done, that is all that is necessary. Practical 
experience proves that if more care is expended, and the fitting-up made a 
little more adequate in the sorting-room or rooms, mistakes in checking 
become fewer, and therefore " shorts " are not quite so numerous. Sorting- 
rooms exist where there is not even a table or bench for the sorter to lay books, 
etc., on, hampers having to be stacked up for this purpose. .Such careless 
equipment is likely to encourage a similar carelessness with regard to detail 
on the part of the worker. 

If really sound, accurate work is expected, every encouragement should be 
given the sorters to keep a tidy room, each one having her own bench, or 
portion of one. All work should be kept off the floor as much as possible. 
In planning the room, it is wise to have the tables down the centre, and 
holders suspended over the tables for the different coloured cottons that may 
be used, so that the reels are not constantly being swept on to the floor, thus 
causing the cotton to become unwound, tangled, and wasted. It is a perfectly 
simple matter to keep the tables in the sorting-room in quite a tidy condition, 
therebv facilitating the accuracy of the workers. 

However good a " head " the room may have, if the tables are allowed to 
be strewn with all sorts and conditions of rubbish that may be turned out of 
the hampers with the work, it will be absolutely impossible to be quite certain 
that one customer's work is not being mixed with that of another. The 
starting-point of the majority of " shorts " is, that a customer's work is 
" checked " and " thrown off," but possibly one or more small articles will 
be left on the table mixed up with waste paper, etc. The next customer's 
work will come along, and the left-over articles will, perhaps, be marked for 
this second customer, and unless the packer is very smart a wholesale muddle 
results when the packing is done, mistakes having been made which quite 
probably can never be rectified. 

11 



12 LAUNDRY WORK 

It is a good plan to require packers to provide themselves with scissors- 
and a thimble. Untidv marking is often the result of not possessing these 
articles. If long ends are left attached to the mark made, these cause it to 
look much larger than it really is, and certainly make the deciphering of the 
mark more difficult when the " racking-up " time comes along. It works well 
if each sorter attaches her own scissors to the belt of her apron, with her black 
lead pencil — which should not be indelible, much damage being caused should 
a piece of it get mixed with the work in the wash. With reference to ink- 
marking, customers as a rule do not like this style of thing. Intending cus- 
tomers frequently inquire if it is employed in the laundry. Cotton works out 
more economically, the marking being clone quite as quickly and with less- 
damage to customers' linen, which in the long run must be better for the launderer. 

Other important items in the sorting-room are the bins to recei\'e the work 
when it is " thrown off." Each should be labelled with the name of the kind 
of article it is intended to contain, and there should be sufficient bins to take 
all the different classes of work separately. Wash-house men are sometimes 
too eager to make up a " load," and mix together various classes of work 
which should be washed separately. If sorters know that this is likely tO' 
happen thev may become careless in the throwing off of the work, thinking 
that ultimately it may be mixed again in the wash-liouse. Sorters and wash- 
house men both need watchful supervision in the mutual interests of both 
of these departments. 

It has been proved that it is a very bad plan to mix handkerchiefs with 
body linen or starched work, their colour being not nearly so good as when 
they are washed alone ; hence they should each have a separate bin. This 
sounds somewhat difficult to accomplish, as in many instances there are not 
a great number of handkerchiefs to a " journey " of work. 

In many wash-houses a small machine is kept for " specials," and in this 
case no trouble need be experienced ; but if only large machines are in use 
it is advisable to gather the handkerchiefs — say — of the first three " journeys " 
together and make one " load " of them, and make this " load " the last of 
" first journey " washing, so that they go through into the ironing or calender 
room with the " first journey " work. In this way the packers receive them 
for racking quite in time with the other work, and can sort all out, putting- 
aside for the later journey those which they do not require at once. 

Bath towels are another instance of separate treatment being required. 
Owing to their texture and substance, very careful handling is required to> 
ensure a good colour. 

If this point is urged, many launderers will object : " Oh, but customers 
do not pay us for all this extra time and trouble ! " It is admitted that 
prices are cut just as fine as it is possible for them to be, but with a good 
system the work can be turned out far better, a.nd much more cheaply, than if 
it is rushed through in a haphazard fashion. 



TRADE NOTES ON SORTING 13 

The checking of customers' books is another section of the work where 
neatness and accuracy are required, though many sorters think that so long 
as some kind of mark is put against the article to denote that it has been 
received, that is quite sufficient. Actually a great saving could be accom- 
plished if the checking-in and the pricing of garments were more carefully 
gone into. 

Few launderers meet with a customer who is generous, or even honest 
enough, to remind them that he or she has been undercharged for a certain 
article. Apart from dresses and blouses, the charge for which may be any- 
thing from fourpence onwards, there are many small articles which pass 
through the sorting-room and ought to receive a special mark as to price. 
These go through, receiving a considerable amount of attention in the wash- 
house and ironing-room ; and if the matter is looked into, it is found that 
the price charged to the customer does not cover the cost of the actual work 
expended on them, apart from receiving, sending out, etc. 

Some managers hold that " one thing pays in with another," but this is not 
a correct basis for a scale of charges, which ought to depend entirely on the 
expenditure of time and labour involved. One responsible and thoroughly 
competent person in a sorting-room, part of whose duty it is to price all the 
work, may substantially safeguard the financial side of the business. 

If there is only one sorting-room, all bins should be carefully cleared out 
at the finish of a " journey," that no stray articles may be left in corners. 
Care should be taken that all fancy and " special " work is given out quite 
separately. 

A short explanation may be useful with regard to sorting fancy, coloured, 
and flannel goods. This is a most important item of the sorter's duties, and 
requires careful discrimination. In cases where the flannels are washed in a 
rotary machine, discretion is needed to judge the class of the flannel or woollen 
garments that are going to be mixed with the load for the machine. Similarly 
with coloured goods, it is far better in the long run to wash a few extra by 
hand, than have possibly a whole load spoilt through the presence of one 
article of the wrong class, which has been overlooked. 

No coloured or flannel work should be put into any washing machine without 
some responsible person having previously inspected it. Many of the best 
laundries are finding it more expedient, as well as cheaper, to have all flannels 
and woollens washed by hand, on account of the spoiling and shrinkage that 
occur in the machine. This can be done without necessarily costing an 
undue amount, if the forewoman or head wash-house man sorts, and 
gives out the work to the washers, and sees that the articles really call for 
hand-washing. 

Flannelettes and garments with a mixture of cotton in the manufacture 
are quite safely washed in the machine, and in many cases are improved by 
this process. 



14 LAUNDRY WORK 

If two sorting-rooms are available, the clearing of the work into the wash- 
house will be much more simple. The sorting of the next " journey " can be 
in progress while the previously sorted work is being cleared out. Thus 
two comparatively small sorting-rooms are much better than one really large 
room, as both time and labour are saved. 



CHAPTER III 

MATERIALS FOR USE IN WASHING 

THE REMOVAL OF STAINS— UTENSILS 

In considering the question of washing for the home, it isnecessarj- to study 
both ease and expense, as well as the quality of the ultimate result. There 
are a great many preparations for washing on the market nowadays, which 
are supposed to cleanse the linen absolutely without labour. Most intelligent 
housewives will agree that no portion of their work is accomphshed without 
a certain amount of labour, this being so in the case of the inevitable washing 
day in a larger degree even than with other household duties. On the other 
hand, it is possible to accomplish a heavy day's washing with comparative 
ease, if a good system is worked out and adhered to. 

To Soften Water. 

Putting aside the question of fancy preparations for washing purposes, it 
is best to commence with the softening of water. Hard water will not cleanse 
the dirt from linen ; therefore, as in many districts the water is extremely 
hard, some substance has to be added to it to eliminate this hardness. 
Alkali in the form of ordinary washing soda is the cheapest and most easily 
obtained, and quite a small quantity dissolved in the water to be used has the 
desired effect. It must be distinctly understood that soda in any shape or 
form must not be added to the water for flannels or coloured articles. The 
writer was informed that a certain woman " always put a little soda into the 
water for flannels and coloured things." The danger to the fabric of so doing 
was suggested, and the reply was ; " Oh, but I always use refined soda " — 
but as refined soda has usually three times the strength of the ordinary washing 
soda, the detriment to the goods would necessarily be threefold. 

If the water is extremely hard, adding a little ammonia has a beneficial 
effect on blankets and white woollens, but coloured garments should be kept 
away from this, many colours " running " if coming into contact with it. 
For instance, if blankets are bordered with fairly bright colours, too strong 
a solution of anunonia will often cause them to " bleed " into the white part, 
and entirely spoil their appearance when finished. 

If any small, delicate, coloured articles are to be washed, it is quite a good 
plan to boil up a sufficient quantity of water to use, and allow it to cool down 
to the required temperature, when it will be found to require less soap. A 
lather is much more readily obtained by this means than when water is merely 
warmed up to the required heat. The advantages gained are twofold : economj' 
of soap on the one hand, and the preservation of the colour due to the 
restricted use of soap on the other. 

15 

J— (635) 



16 LAUNDRY WORK 

Soaps. 

To take next the question of soaps. A good ordinary yellow, or even 
mottled soap, will produce a good result if properly used. All soaps are best 
if procured some time before being required for use, the bars being cut up 
into pieces of convenient size and allowed to dry out. In this way the 
moisture contained in the soap is absorbed by the air, leaving the fatty acids 
which are required for saponification. 

Experience will soon prove that there are various qualities of soap which 
are entirely unsuitable for washing linen, and also have a roughening effect on 
the hands. It is wise, when buying soap, to see that it does not appear too 
moist. It should look firm ; an apparently hard soap is of more value than 
one which can be easily marked by pressure with the fingers. 

It is advisable to keep in stock a quantity of boiled soap, or soap jellv, as 
many people prefer to call it. 

For convenience, it is best to make this stock fairly strong, sav, about 
2 lb. of soap to half a small pailful of water. Cut the soap into small pieces, 
add to the water, and boil until they are dissolved. A little of this, when 
melted, added to the water for washing flannels, " coloureds," etc., will greatly 
facilitate the washing, and will prevent the need of using raw soap. 

Blue. 

It is well to realise the object for which the use of blue is intended. Blue 
should not be used as a dye to cover up defects in washing and rinsing, but 
as an agent to assist the latter process, and to eliminate the effects of hard, 
clear water on white cotton goods, namely, the yellowish tint we all wish to 
avoid. It is possible to procure " blues " in both the solid and the liquid 
states. For private use the former is chiefly in demand, being convenient 
to use and most economical. (For the use of the above, see pages 38-9.) 

Gum Arabic. 

A pennyworth of this can be obtained at chemists' or stores, and, used 
sparingly, will serve to stiffen articles not requiring much ironing {e.g., lace). 
It has a tendency, however, to brown under the iron and may even cause 
the fabric to crack. 

Glycerine. 

This is used by some people to assist in the finishing of laces, but great 
care has to be taken that it is not used in too large quantities and that an 
undue amount of moisture is not left in them before pressing ; otherwise the 
edges and raised patterns take on a brownish tinge. It is best to add a 
teaspoonful to a quart of the stiffening solution as given on page 153. 

Glycerine will be found extremely useful should a silk or flannel garment 
have become slightly scorched. In this case it must be used immediately the 
scorch occurs, and be applied by using a clean, moist damper [cj. p. 24), the 
surface of which has been dipped into a httle glycerine. 



MATERIALS FOR USE IN WASHING 17 

Acids ; their Use. 

Various acids are used for the removal of stains ; but in the ordinary private 
house it is most necessary to exercise caution. They should always be kept in 
jars distinctly labelled, should be stored out of the reach of inexperienced 
persons, and used only by those who have sufficient knowledge to safeguard 
against accidents both themselves and the articles to be treated. 

To Remove Ink Stains and Iron Rust. 

These are stains of almost everyday occurrence. As a rule, clear water 
will not absorb ink stains. If a very small portion of oxalic acid is dissolved 
in boiling water, and the stained part of the article is immersed in this boiling 
solution, the ink will speedily be removed. Iron rust can be removed in a 
similar manner, whether caused by medicines, or by hooks on garments, etc. 

If the article to be freed from either of these stains is coloured or com- 
posed of silk, the temperature of the solution must be much lower, or damage 
will be caused. In this case, dissolve the acid, and allow the mixture to 
stand for a few minutes, or until the tip of the finger can be borne in it, when 
it will be perfectly safe to use. 

For iron rust on woollen garments, equal parts of citric acid and cream of 
tartar are very effective. This can be used as follows : moisten the spot 
with warm water, rub the powder well in, and when the stain is removed, 
rinse well. In obstinate cases, dissolve a little of the mixture in fairly warm 
water, and allow the stained part to soak until the rust is removed. 

If possible, these stains should be removed before the articles are washed, 
but if occasion arises and thev cannot be re-washed, the stained area must be 
well rinsed before drying or ironing. For white cotton goods, a little soda 
should be added to the first rinse to neutralise the acid, and for flannel and 
coloured articles the first rinse should contain a little soap. After the removal 
of the stains, the parts treated must not be rubbed vigorously ; the water 
should be allowed to flow through the material. 

To Remove Stains on Table Linen. 

It is very seldom that all stains can be removed from table linen with the 
usual wash and boil : on the other hand, a large amount of the ordinary food 
stains will disappear if a little extra soap is rubbed on these places and a certain 
amount of careful friction used, so that too much is not left to be eradicated 
in the boiling. 

The popular idea is, that chloride of lime is a most dangerous substance 
to use ; properly speaking, it is not in itself so dangerous, though wrong methods 
of using it may bring disastrous results. In making up a small quantity of 
solution, take about two tablespoonfuls of the powder, add just a small piece of 
washing soda, and pour about 1 pint of boiling water slowly on this, stirring 



18 LAUNDRY WORK 

carefully, so that all the lumps are dissolved. The soda helps to carry the 
lime away, and assists in making the solution clearer, and more fit for use. 

The mixture must stand to cool, and needs straining before being bottled 
for use. Whatever of the powder remains in the solution must not be shaken 
up when the solution is being used, as it is these small particles that cause 
the damage to linen. 

When an article is so stained with tea, fruit, wine or medicine that the 
marks will not move with ordinary washing, a good plan is to look over the 
article, find all the spots there may be, dip the fingers into the bleach, and 
dab each stain separately before putting the article into the copper to boil. 
If the stain is very large, put about a tablespoonful of the bleaching liquid 
into a small bowl of water, immerse the stained part in this, and allow it to 
remain for a few minutes. 

i'Vlthough this bleaching liquid is a useful and valuable agent, great care 
must be taken that it does not come into contact with any flannel or coloured 
garments. When it has been used it must be poured away immediately, so that 
there may be nohkelihood of its being upset, or mistaken for a harmless hquid. 

Acetic Acid. 

This is a valuable medium for the setting and restoring of delicate colours. 
On the other hand, it must not be supposed that, if carelessness has occurred 
in the washing of a coloured garment, this acid is going to make all right 
again. It will be found extremely useful if it is mixed with the rinsing water 
for light coloured silks, especially hght blues, mauve, light greens, and so on. 
If the articles are of fairly dark colours, vinegar will be found cheaper and 
quite as useful. In both instances, it is easy to ascertain when sufficient is 
put into the quantity of water used, owing to the pungent odour. It is 
necessary for the water to smell fairly strongly of the acids. 

Salt. 

For black garments, black and white checks, dark greys, etc., a strong 
solution of salt is very efficacious for making the black of a nice distinct 
tone, and the white of a perfect clearness. A heaped handful of salt is 
required to 2 or 3 gallons of water. 

To Remove Mud Stains. 

There are occasions when mud stains are extremely difficult to remove. 
As a rule, if they are on white cotton goods, less difficulty is experienced, but 
even here a few suggestions may be useful. If it is possible to attack the stains 
while wet, this is by far the best. Commence by dipping the mud-stained 
portion into a very soapy, lukewarm water, allow it to soak for a few 
minutes, and then proceed to rub, with a round, light motion. Do not rub 
vigorously, or the fibres of the material will absorb the stain, and removal 



^lATERIALS FOR USE IN WASHING 19 

will become almost impossible. If the article is coloured or woollen the same 
process can be adhered to. 

When removing mud stains do not immerse the whole garment in the water 
used: remove the stain, and wash the garment in another water prepared 
for the purpose. 

Removal of Grease, Paint, etc. 

For the removal of tar, paint, etc., turpentine is a very valuable agent. 
The best plan is to lay the stained part of the garment on a clean table, 
pour a few drops of turpentine on the stain, and commence rubbing lightly, 
with an easy, round motion. A clean piece of soft material should be used 
for this purpose, and the rubbing should be commenced from the outer edge 
of the stain, gradually working towards the centre. 

To Remove Candle Grease. 

To remove this, cov-er the grease spot with brown paper of a dull clothy 
te.xture (smooth brown paper as a rule is not nearly so elfective), apply a 
fairly warm iron, and thus draw the grease through. Clean blotting-paper 
will serve the same purpose. The foregoing process should be done before 
the articles are washed. 

The writer strongly advises against the use of benzine, petrol, etc., in private 
houses, and in places unprepared for their use. These inflammable spirits 
should not be used by inexperienced persons, nor in buildings where there 
is the least possibility of danger. It is also exceedingly dangerous to pour 
waste spirit, however small the quantity may be, down a sink or drain of 
any kind. Any benzine, petrol, benzoline, etc., left over, should always be 
poured into the earth, thereby avoiding disastrous results. 

Utensils. 

As a rule, expense has to be spared, and attention must be paid to the 
space available for storing these articles when not in use. 

Baths (Fig. 1) for washing purposes can be obtained of almost any size 
required, those with the band of galvanised zinc round the base (Fig. 2), 
which raises the bottom of the bath from the ground, being the best and 




Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 



20 



LAUNDRY WORK 



most economical in the end, their cost being very little in advance of the 
other makes. A and B in Fig. 3 show sections of the two baths, for comparison. 




Fig. 3. 



Baths of the capacity of 12 gahons usually cost about 2s. 6d. with the e.xtra 
band at the base, while those of the same size without the guard, cost about 2s. 

Galvanised Pails. 

These can also be procured with the raised bottoms, which add greatly to 
their length of life. These articles, when not in use, should be thoroughly 
dried and hung up, so as to be clean and in readiness for next use. 

Washing-Boards. 

Many people like to use a corrugated washing-board, while, on the other 
hand, a plain smooth one and a brush are often preferred. The former may be 
obtained made solely of wood, or with the fluted part covered with a thin layer 
of galvanised zinc. For many reasons the wooden ones are the best : they are 
c.isaper, to commence with, and, with the zin; one;, there is a danger of the 
metal getting cracked, peeling up, and causing danger to the linen. 

With the plain board, a brush is usually needed, and this should be of medium 
stiffness. Heavy brushes with hard, dark bristles clean the work no more 
easily, and are apt to be very tiring to the worker. Various makes and sizes 
of brushes are easily obtained, made with a mixture of light and dark bristles. 
These will be found of sufficient firmness, and, when new, should be soaked 
in several fresh cold waters before being used. 

We pass from washing utensils to the articles to be used for finishing and 
beautifying the linen. 

Wringers and Mangles. 

In the majority of private houses it is found most convenient to use those 
with wooden rollers, as they are useful both for wringing the wet clothes and 
for mangling them after they are dry. 

The smaher makes with two rubber rollers are really better for wringing, as 
there is not the tendency to break buttons and destro\' hooks, etc. ; but, as they 



MATERIALS FOR USE IN WASHING 21 

are not suitable for mangling as well, not all private families possess them. 
In either case the wringer must be kept clean and well oiled, care being taken 
that the oil is put into the bearings and not on the rollers. 

When not in use the pressure screw must be unloosed. This is most 
important, as otherwise the constant pressure will weaken the rollers, and cause 
them to wear out quickly. Wooden ones should be moistened with water 
occasionally if they are left unused for any length of time. Moreover, if this 
is done before the mangling is commenced, the clothes will appear smoother 
and the rollers will run less risk of splitting; but, of course, if the washing 
has not long been completed, the rollers will be sufficiently wet. 

If rubber rollers become dark and greasy looking, a cloth damped with 
turpentine will speechly remove the dirt. When not in use wringers of any 
kind should be kept covered, to prevent dust from settling into the parts. 

Clothes Lines. 

The two most popular classes of line in general use for the drying and airing 
of linen are (1) ordinary rope, which can be obtained of various prices and 
qualities from 4d. a dozen yards ; and (2) galvanised wire rope, which can 
be procured either plain or twisted. The former style of wire rope is pre- 
ferable ; in the first place, because there are no cre\aces for dirt and dust to 
settle in, and again, in some instances it will be found that one strand of 
the wire will crack, and subject the clothes to the danger of being torn, 
through the rough, sharp, broken edges. Whatever class of line is used must 
be kept clean, or the clothes will have unsightly marks on them after they 
are dried. 

Ordinary clothes line should be put out only when it is required for use, 
and when taken in should be coiled up neatly and kept in a box or bag. In 
this case all that is necessary is to dust it with a clean cloth, slightly damped, 
after it is stretched ready to receive the clothes. It is best not to make it 
quite wet, as it shrinks and hardens in the water, and is difficult to use until 
dry again. If the lines become dirty, they should be washed v\ath a little soap 
and water, and be allowed to get thoroughly dry before they are again used. 

Galvanised lines are usually put up as ii.xtures, so that they are always 
ready for use, ajter they are cleaned, which is most essential, as it will be 
found that the moisture and dirt in the atmosphere cling to the surface, and 
will otherwise cause greasy-looking marks on the clothes. A wet, soapy cloth 
should be used, each line being well rubbed. 

Clothes Pegs. 

As a rule, these are made of wood, and in some cases are bound with a piece 
of thin metal, which is inadvisable, on account of the risk of rusting the wet 
clothes, and of tearing them on the sharp edges. Here, also, attention should 
be paid to cleanliness : when not in use, pegs should be kept with the lines, 
and occasionally have a damp cloth passed through the cleft of each peg, to 



22 



LAUNDRY WORK 



remove possible dust and dirt. Should any become dirty through falHng to 
the ground, they should not be mixed with the others, but be properly washed 
before being used. 

Clothes Baskets. 

These are of various sizes and qualities, but it is essential that they are 
kept extremely clean and free from the dust which readily settles in their 
crevices. If they are rubbed with a damp cloth before clean, dry clothes are 
placed in them, the linen is safeguarded from unsightly marks. 

Wet clothes must never be put into a basket, whether of cane or willow, 
unless it is lined with a cloth ; otherwise brown streaks may appear on them. 
It is occasionally necessary to scrub the baskets with clean soapy water, 
after which they should be dried in the open air whenever possible. 

" Empire ' ' Dryer. 

This will be found exceedingly useful in private houses, or in airing-rooms 







Tu&h ub - U ofcen. . 
Fig. 4. 



MATERIALS FOR USE IN WASHING 



23 



where space is limited. As shown in Fig. 4, the " Dryer " is fixed to a wall 
closed, and is opened by pushing upwards, when the rails assume the shape 
of an open fan (see Fig. 5), each lath holding one or two articles. If it is 
hung over, or near a gas stove or fireplace, the clothes will dry very quickly, 
and for airing clothes it is invaluable. This article can be procured from 
firms that supply laundry apphances, the usual cost being 3s. 6d. 




Fig. 



Clothes Horses. 

For indoor drying these are invaluable, and can be procured single or 
with two or three leaves ; also with varying numbers of rails, as needed in 
households of different sizes. It is necessary to choose a make which will 
stand firmly, and thus minimise the risk of the laden clothes-horse falling 
forward into the fire. The webbing which forms the hinges must be kept 
in good condition and be firmly secured to the wood. 

Ironing Blanket. 

A pad of felt, blanket, or woollen material of some sort will be required 
for the ironing table, and also a clean calico cover. It is very important to 



24 LAUNDRY WORK 

keep the ironing blanket aired and in a clean condition. If it is folded up 
and put away with the dampness from ironing in it, it will be found extremely 
unpleasant to use, and will not last nearly so long. 

Flannel Pad. 

When ironing embroidery work, lace, or any material that has a pattern 
to be raised, or that requires to have a " finish " as when new, a flannel pad 
will be required. This can be made by placing together several thick- 
nesses of flannel, or thin white blanket — not necessarily new — and tacking 
them firmly to keep them in position. 

If a large quantity of ironing is done week by week, it is best to have one 
specially kept for the ironing of shirt fronts, and another for lace and 
embroidery, but if only a few articles have to be ironed, the same pad will 
answer for both purposes. Whenever it becomes stiffened with the contact 
of damp starched work, it should be carefully washed, which can be done 
without unpicking. 

Dampening Rags. 

An exceedingly useful appendage to the ironing table is a clean soft piece 
of rag, to be used as a " damper." For this purpose, old well-washed flannel 
or white flannelette is most suitable, for both of these materials, when wrung 
out of water, retain about the correct amount of moisture that will be needed 
if the article being ironed requires extra dampening for any purpose. 

It should be kept perfectly clean, and should be washed and dried after the 
ironing is finished each week, to be in readiness for future use. Calico is not 
so satisfactory for this purpose, as it is liable to throw out too much moisture 
when the article being ironed is rubbed with it. 

Ironing Table. 

A polished table should not be used if another is available, as not only will 
the moisture from the garments ironed soak through the pad and spoil the 
table, but the felt will be constantly slipping away from the worker. 

A skirt board, broad at one end, and tapering to the other, is very useful 
and necessary for the successful ironing of skirts and dresses. A good 
average size is about 4 ft. long by 18 in. at the wide end and 9 in. at the 
narrow end. 

This board should be kept covered with two or three thicknesses of felt 
or blanket. It is best to cut the padding a few inches larger than the board 
each way, turn the edges over on to the reverse side, and fix them there firmly 
with tin-tacks, avoiding creases and WTinkles in the felt. 

If two trestles are available, they make a convenient stand for the board, 
and, in fact, this is a very suitable ironing table for average private houses. 
Supported on the backs of two chairs, the board is quite easy to use. The 



MATERIALS FOR USE IN WASHING 



25 



padding need not often be removed, for as it is not folded, the steam is 
enabled to escape. 

Flat-irons. 

These can be obtained in a number of sizes, but small ones are, as a rule, 
in demand for private use. (Fig. 6.) It is advisable to choose a medium 
size, e.g., 6 or 8, which cost about Is. and Is. 4d. respectively. They will be 
found quite easy to use, as actually the extra weight of the larger iron is not 
noticed if it is skilfully manipulated. 




Holts. Jor- 



Fig. 7. 



26 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Very convenient irons are supplied by most of the gas companies ; thev are 
of fairly good size and are heated with gas. 

The usual method of connecting the gas supply for the heating of these irons 
is by means of a length of flexible tubing, which has been connected to a 
suitable burner. (Fig. 7.) 

They will be found quite easy to manage, but care must be taken that 
the connections are secure, and that the gas is regulated in the iron. While 
the gas is alight the iron is gradually getting hotter ; therefore, if the articles 
that are being ironed are not very damp, so that the heat is not being absorbed 
by the moisture, the light inside the iron must be kept very low indeed. As 
a rule, the burners of these irons are similar to an ordinary gas burner and 
can readily be understood. A lighted " spill " or taper should be carried to 
the iron, the burner turned on, and the gas lighted. It is advisable not to 
turn on the gas before procuring the taper. 

If the tubing is of rubber, it should be taken off the iron when not in use 
and be carefully put away, and if kept in a dark place, its life will be con- 
siderably lengthened. Electric irons are similar in structure, and Fig. 8 
illustrates the method of connecting the plug to the iron. 




Mi 

aeo-C. 



Another class of flat-iron is the " Dalli." This is heated by means of charcoal 
supplied especially for the purpose. Such irons have been found very con- 
venient in the summer time, when other means of heating would be somewhat 
irksome. Their cost is about 6s., the charcoal being sold in tiny blocks at 
2|d. per doz. Directions for feeding the iron are supplied \sath it. 

It is most essential that irons of any description should be kept free from 
dirt and rust. In fact this applies "to all classes of laundry utensils and 



MATERIALS FOR USE IN WASHING 



27 



appliances. Well-finished work cannot be turned out if, after use, they are 
left about to gather dirt and rust. A little wax or clean grease rubbed on 
the irons before they get cold, and allowed to remain on until they are heated 
again, will greatly facilitate the future ironing. When required for use the 
grease should be cleaned off when they are partially hot. It is necessary to 
be most careful not only that the base of the iron is clean and smooth, but 
also that the top part and handle are carefully dusted. 

Should irons have become rusty or in bad condition, the following is a 
good plan for cleaning them : Procure a dean rag and a little finely-powdered 
Bath-brick, to which should be added a little grease or wax. With this, well 
rub the face of the iron when it is slighth' warm ; all the mixture used, 
however, must be thoroughly cleaned off before the iron is re-heated. 

Some people advocate the use of paraffin for cleansing irons, but this is 
found to cause a roughness which is especially noticeable if the face of the 
iron is hot. 

Iron Stands. 

Sometimes these are sold with wooden handles, but those made entirely of 
metal are much to be preferred, since they are safer. It is advisable to see 
that they are fairlj' well raised from the table, so that the ironing pad may be 
protected from scorching. The}' should stand firmly, and should be sufficiently 
large to receive the iron, or it may be continually slipping off. 

Polishing Irons. 

These are used chiefly for the glazing of shirts, collars, and cuffs, and are 
usually much smaller than flat-irons. They range in size from to 4, and the 
average cost is about Is. For amateurs the smaller sizes are advisable. {See 




Fig. 9. 

Fig. 9.) Polishing irons must be kept extremely clean and smooth, otherwise 
they will do much more harm than good when in use. 



28 LAUNDRY WORK 

In conjunction with these irons, a board must be used, which should be made 
of hard wood, well planed and smoothed, and kept solely for the purpose of 
polishing. It should measure about 18 in. by 10 in., and should be covered 
with clean calico in the form of a case, so that no seams rest on the side of 
the board which is used. 

Heating Irons. 

When heating ordinary flat or polishing irons, it is necessary to keep the 
" face " of the iron from actual contact with the source of the heat as much 
as possible. In laundries, therefore, closed-in, slow-combustion stoves are 
used, so that the irons only come intocontact with the heated stove and never 
with the fuel used. In this way they are always smooth, and can be easily 
kept clean. In private houses, where a closed kitchen-range is fitted, the 
top of this practically answers the same purpose, and will be found convenient 
and suitable. 

A gas-ring or stove is also a good means of heating them, and an excellent 
plan is to keep a piece of thin sheet iron to place over the gas or " kitchener," 
and to place the irons upon it. The face of the irons can thus be kept 
smoother, and will necessarily be much more pleasant to use. In the case 
of a stove that is kept well black-leaded, this will do away with the necessity 
for cleaning off the top of the stove before the irons are put to heat. 

Ironholders. 

These sht)uld be sufficiently thick to protect the hand from the heat of 
the iron without being uncomfortably bulky to hold, and not so large as to 
hang down far enough to scorch on the base of the iron. 

They are best made of woollen material, through which the heat will not 
readily penetrate ; but the outer covering should be of some light, smooth 
material, from which no hairs or fluff will fall upon the work which is being 
laundered. 

Sleeve Board. 

This is also a necessary and useful article, especially for the ironing of 




Fig. 10. 
blouse sleeves. The type shown in Fig. 10 can be obtained for about 



MATERIALS FOR USE IN WASHING 



29 



Is. 3d., and is made of wood only. A really substantial make is sold 
for 2s. 6d. It is possible to get a heavy make with a galvanised base and 
movable boards, two being supplied with each stand, the cost being 63. 6d. 
The board requires covering with at least two thicknesses of felt, which must 
be fixed on very neatly, to avoid creases, and be covered with a small piece of 
calico before using. 




Fig. U. 



30 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Goffering Irons. 

For the finishing of starched frills, goffering is a simple, and pretty process, 
for which irons may be obtained at a fairly low cost. They can be bought 
for 6d. onwards, and quite a good substantial make for about Is. (See Fig. 11.) 



Lace Punch. 

This article, as 



shown in Fig. 12, will be found very useful for 



the 



finishing of raised patterns on laces, and can be bought for about Is. 



About. < > J.f 



Metal. 



Wooi. 



i 



Fig. 12. 



MATERIALS FOR USE IN WASHING 



31 



Egg Iron. 

This iron often facilitates the ironing of tiny sleeves, the crowns of hats 
and bonnets, or ruchings that may possibly occur in garments. {See Fig. 13.) 



Httal 




Fig. 13. 



s— (635I 



CHAPTER IV 

STARCHES— RECIPES 
THE TINTING OF LACES AND CURTAINS 

The two principal methods of using starch for purposes of laundry work are — 
First, in the " raw" state, when a mixture is made with cold or lukewarm 
water and the starch is left uncooked, thus causing the swelling and bursting 
of the starch granules to come about when the article that has been " raw 
starched" is being ironed. This method is chiefly used for shirts, collars, and 
cuffs, and in some instances for fine muslin work, these latter articles 
requiring a very dilute solution. 

Secondly, starch is largely used in the boiled state, and is then suitable for 
household linen and various garments {e.g., dresses, petticoats, blouses, etc.). 
When used thus, it imparts to the garments a more supple feeling and 
appearance, and if carefuUy made and used is suitable for articles of the 
finest texture. 

In making up boiled starch for use, it is absolutely essential that all the 
starch grains shall burst. It is quite easy to ascertain when this has happened, 
for at that moment it takes on a clear appearance, and is said to have 
" turned," and is then quite fit for use. When starching garments, it is best 
to use the starch while it is yet warm. In this way the starch enters the linen 
more easily, and the work, after ironing, has a smoother appearance. 

For ordinary household purposes, a good white rice starch is to be recom- 
mended, and is quite an economical commodity, the average price being 
4d. per lb. It is advisable to store it in a clean, drv place. The number 
of articles to be starched should be studied in estimating the quantity of 
starch to be made up. On the other hand, left-over starch should never 
be thrown away. If covered over and strained before using again, it remains 
quite good for some time. In the case of " raw " starch, this is even an 
improvement. 

The following directions will be found useful m the preparing of starch for 
different classes of garments. 

" Raw ' ' Starch. 

i lb. white starch ; 

^ oz. borax ; 

A few shreds of curd soap ; 

1 quart water. 
Put the borax and curd soap (finely shredded) into a saucepan, with 
enough of the water to cover it, and boil until dissolved. While this is in 

32 



STARCHES— RECIPES 33 

preparation, put the starch into a clean pan, and mix it to a smooth " creamy " 
paste with a small quantity of the cold water. When the starch feels perfectly 
free from " grit," the rest of the water can be gradually added. The whole 
quantity should never be poured in at once, as all the small particles require 
dissolving as much as possible. By this time the borax and soap should 
be ready. Allow the mixture to go just off the boil, then stir it into the starch 
by degrees very carefully. If good curd soap is used, it will be found to have 
■quite a " whitening " effect on the linen. On «o account must yellow or 
mottled soap be used. White wax can be substituted for the soap, but 
has not quite such a clear effect. One quart of starch will be sufficient for, 
say, three or four shirts and about one dozen collars. 

If raw starch is required for muslin goods, only a very weak solution is 
needed, judgment having to be used according to the texture of the article. 
For instance, a satisfactory plan is to starch pinafores and thin muslin gar- 
ments that have to be ironed fairly wet, in the following way. When the 
articles are to be prepared thus, they need not be dried after washing, but 
must be put into, and wrung out of the starch, and must not be dried before 
ironing. They should be rolled in a cloth until the irons are ready. 

For this class of thing, i pint of the mixture already referred to, added to 
about H pints (more or less) of water, will result in the degree of stiffness 
required. This method of starching is very convenient if drying would have 
to be done under adverse conditions, or when the weather renders outdoor 
drying impossible. 

It should be remembered that wet articles, being put into starch, will 
gradually weaken it ; therefore, if there are a good number, its strength must 
be renewed occasionally. 

Boiled Starch. 

Half a lb. of starch will be required in the preparation of boiled starch 
for dresses, blouses, curtains, etc. Supposing 4 quarts is needed, a good- 
sized kettle or saucepan full of water will be wanted. 

Put the starch into a pan sufficiently large to hold a gallon, and work it 
up into a smooth paste with a little extra cold water, adding at most 1 pint. 
If too much cold water is used, the starch will be more difficult to " turn." 
Into the boiling water put a small piece of borax (about i oz.), add a few 
shreds of white wax or curd soap. When the water is boiling, pour on fairly 
quickly, stirring all the time. As the starch begins to turn and become trans- 
parent-looking, stir more quickly, until a nice smooth clearness is estabhshed. 
A little practice will soon assist the user to know how much water to add for 
different classes of material. 

The best plan is to sort out all work that has to be starched, treating the 
fine white articles first, leaving the coloured or thicker ones until last. 
Carefully made starch is of great assistance to the ironer, garments that are 



34 LAUNDRY WORK 

starched in a badly made preparation are difficult to iron, and have a very 
" thiclc " appearance when finished. 

The above quantity of boiled starch may be sufficient for, say, two or three 
pairs of curtains, possibly a dozen pieces such as blouses or frocks, and 
various thicker articles of household linen that may require stiffening. 

Creaming Curtains and Laces. 

There are various methods by which lace and curtains can be tinted. 

(i) Cream Starch. 

This can be procured, but only a very little of it is required to obtain a 
fairly deep shade. It should be mixed in the dry state with a proportion of 
white starch, and care must be taken that all the small particles are dis- 
solved in the cold water before the boiling water is added, otherwise the grains 
of cream starch will cause brown specks on the finished article. The quantity 
really depends on the shade desired, but the mixing of 1 oz. of cream to J lb. 
of white starch results in a fairly medium tint. 

(2) Permanganate of Potash. 

Fine laces can be very successfully coloured by this substance, but it must be 
distinctly understood that it is practically a dye, therefore unless the colour 
is required to be permanent, other means of obtaining the desired shade 
should be adopted. A few grains will be sufficient for 1 quart of hot water. 
After testing the liquid, immerse the article, and then rinse it in clear warm 
water. This removes any unevenness there may be in the resulting colour. 
The depth of tone will entirely depend on the quantity of colouring matter 
used. 

<3) Saffron. 

Delicate tints can be produced if this is carefully used. The saffron should 
be put into a jar or saucepan, one pennyworth to 1 quart of water, and be gently 
simmered for one hour. The liquid must be carefully strained to remove all 
particles before it is used, otherwise endless trouble will be caused. If the 
use of this liquid causes too yellowish a tint, the addition of a little strong 
tea produces rather a pleasing shade. 

(4) Tea and Coffee. 

Both of the above produce effective tints. In each case the mixture should 
be allowed to " stand " after being made and then be strained before it is 
used. If the shade obtained thus is too dull, a little of some other brighter 
tint added, such as saffron or ecru " Dolly tints." materially improves the 
effect. 



STARCHES— RECIPES 35 

The foregoing methods are, perhaps, somewhat troublesome in comparison 
with the use of various tints that can be bought quite cheaply, but in many cases 
they will prove more satisfactory, as shades can be produced which are not 
obtainable in those bought ready to use. 

[Note. — Whatever method is adopted, it is advisable to test a piece of 
material similar to that which is to be tinted, before the whole article is 
immersed.] 



CHAPTER V 

WASHING AND STARCHING COTTON AND 
HOUSEHOLD LINEN 

Before commencing to wash white work, prepare the water as follows. 
Half fill a bath or tank with fairly warm water, at a temperature of from about 
85° to 90° v., and add just a small portion of soda: if ordinary washing 
soda is used, halt a handful is sufficient to soften several gallons of water. If 
too much soda is added, the skin of the hands will become very tender, which 
is quite unnecessary. 

Take the first lot of white work to be washed (sdvpage;9, 141), rub each of 
the articles lightly on the soiled parts with soap, and leave them in the water 
until sufficient of the fine work is soaked in to be conveniently washed at one 
time. Fine pieces must be lightly rubbed between the hands, collars and 
thick handkerchiefs may be scrubbed with a fairly soft brush. If a corrugated 
rubbing board is used, no brush is needed : on the other hand, many people 
prefer a plain board and a brush of medium stiffness, thus saving the fingers 
a good deal. Shirts will require special attention at the edges of wrists, 
collar bands and fronts, as well as under arms, elbows, etc. Handkerchiefs will 
require friction on both sides to ensure their looking clear and free from 
streaks. Hems of frocks, front widths, collars and waistbands usuallv demand 
most care. As a rule, cotton starched work is fairly easy to wash, the chief 
aim being to keep this class of work a good colour. If ladies' dresses and 
petticoats are found to be extremely mud-stained, follow the directions on 
page 18, before the articles are put into the ordinary washing water. 

After all the small fine pieces are washed, wring and put aside ready for 
the first boil, and soak a reasonable quantity of body linen in the same water. 
The specially soiled parts should be lightly soaped as they are put in. While 
these are soaking, prepare the copper and put in the first lot to boil. The 
copper should only be about two-thirds full of water, that the water may 
not overflow when the clothes are put in. A small quantity of soda must 
be added before the linen is immersed, about half a tea-cupful to an 8-gallon 
copper is sufficient. 

Many people prefer to rinse the clothes in cold water after washing, in 
order to remove the soap before boiling ; but this is hardly necessary if the 
washing water is changed a reasonable number of times, in accordance with 
the kind of dirt that is in the linen, and the number of articles that are to be 
washed. In fact, the sudden plunging into cold hard water from the hot 
soapy bath has a tendency to darken the linen, giving it, in many cases, a 
greyish, unwholesome appearance. 

Very small or fine lace pieces should not be put in the copper loosely 

36 



WASHING AND STARCHING 37 

among larger and heavier articles, but should be boiled in a cotton bag kept 
for the purpose. There is no actual economy in overcrowding the copper, 
as an overfilled one invariably takes longer to boil. 

After sufficient garments are carefully put in, shred a few pieces of soap, 
and allow these to dissolve on the top as the water boils up. Shredded soap 
should not be put in before the clothes, as there is a tendency for the pieces 
to stick to the sides of the copper; these hot jellified fragments attract the 
linen, and are liable to cause " copper-burn." 

A vast difference in the colour of the linen can result from correctly or 
carelessly steeping the articles in the copper. For instance, it may be noticed, 
when putting in body linen, that the calico is fairly firm and resists the water. 
If one of these comparatively thick articles is placed on the top, and stoked 
in carelessly, the result will be that parts of the garment form into bags 
of air, while scarcely any water flows through, hence the boiling will do little 
good. Take the same garment, however thick, lay the neck part on the 
water, and, while holding the rest in the left hand, thrust it gradually in with 
the copper stick, so that the water has a chance of flowing through, and none 
of these " air bubbles " will be seen. 

Pillow-cases, also, require the same attention in the boiling, and should 
never be put into the water from the top hems. The closed part of the slip 
should be put in first, the top hem being held in the hand until the water has 
soaked through. 

To the majority of beginners these precautions may sound unnecessary, 
and they may think that time would be wasted thus ; but experience will 
soon prove their value. These hot dry air bubbles in the boiling are extremely 
dangerous, not only to the linen, but to the person working at the copper; 
a very vigorous push with the stick may cause the linen to burst, and serious 
scalds may result from the splashing of the boiling water and steam. 

While the first copperful is coming to the boil, the next set of articles should 
be washed. Linen should not be unduly boiled, as after a certain period 
it has a tendency to absorb the discoloration which the water has removed 
and now contains. This also will show the necessity for changing the boiling 
water fairly frequently. Two or three lots in succession, boiled in the same 
water, are as many as is consistent with reasonable expectations of a good result. 

Clothes can be turned quite a disagreeable yellowish tint through too 
persistent boiling, and it is almost impossible to remove this subsequently. 
After the water has once boiled, ten minutes is quite sufficient to allow the 
clothes to continue boiling before they are taken out. It is well to see that 
the linen is kept well under water while in the copper. 

Care must be taken, when removing small fine work from the copper, 
that the stick does not injure the articles. When lifting them, the danger of 
scalding must be avoided, each one being extricated and disentangled from 
the others, so that splashing and tearing may be prevented. 



38 LAUNDRY WORK 

Allow the clothes to drain either on the up-turned copper-lid, tilted towards 
the copper, or in a bath placed very near. This is necessary, that the extreme 
boiling heat may be diminished before they come into contact with the first 
cold rinse. 

A little fresh cold water must be added to the copper to make up for that 
removed in the clothes, and a very little more soda is needed, and possibly 
a few more shreds of soap after the second set is put in. While these are 
boiling, the nicest of the house linen should be soaked in and washed. If 
there is a large quantity of table linen, this should have fresh water, the 
boiling also being very carefully considered. 

Table cloths, sheets, etc., will require somewhat different handling in 
washing, from personal garments. All garments worn personally have special 
" wear " marks, which must be attacked systematically, to ensure that the 
garment is perfectly clean at the finish. Household linen requires more 
general — all over — loose washing, whereas body linen requires vigorous rub- 
bing in parts. Scrubbing would be quite unnecessary and useless for table 
linen, which needs a good firm rubbing on a board, or between the hands, 
the water being hot, soft and soapy. Sheets, also, would scarcely ever require 
more friction than on an ordinary rubbing-board. 

Rinsing. 

It is absolutely essential that, however well washed and boiled the linen 
has been, it shall be equally well rinsed. Many people say that unless the blue 
water is absolutely clear after being used, the articles are insufficiently rinsed. 
This ideal would be found exceedingly difficult to attain, for if the articles 
had as many as six rinses in clear water, the blue would still show a certain 
amount of soapy sediment after their removal. 

If the linen has two good rinses, all the articles being well opened in the 
water to allow of its flowing through them, and then are " blued " in a third 
water, there is no reason why the linen should not be a nice fair colour, and 
quite easy to iron. It may be as well to emphasize here that one of the needs 
for good rinsing is on account of the ironing to follow. 

Badly rinsed clothes never iron easily, apart from the bad colour and 
unpleasant odour, for they have a great tendency to scorch under the iron, 
which is most annoying to the ironer, and exceedingly unpleasant for the 
wearer. Assuming that all the linen has had at least two good rinses, 
attention must be directed to the " blueing." 

" Blueing." 

Before the blue is used, the worker should become acquainted with its 
" strength." Nothing is more unsightly than clothes with too strong a tinge 
of blue in them, for it gives them a " cheap," common effect, and, moreover, 
in some cases it is hard to remove. 



WASHING AND STARCHING 39 

As has been prevnously explained, there are many kinds of blue to be 
obtained, each being quite good in its own way when judiciously used. If 
that in liquid form is preferred, it is best to get into the habit of using a certain 
measure, a spoon, for instance, and also the same quantity of water, so that 
a uniform tint is obtained. 

If a solid form of blue is used, the square should be tied in a flannel bag, 
and squeezed through as required ; the flannel thus acts as a strainer and 
prevents the grains of blue from specking the linen. The blue bag should not 
be laid about, but should be kept in a jar when not in use, as the strong tint 
coming straight from it acts as a dye to anything with which it comes into 
contact, and thereby is liable to cause much damage. 

When blueing the clothes, only one article should be put into the water 
at a time, and wrung out straight away. Some textures will take the blue 
very much more easily than others ; therefore watchfulness is needed that 
anything of soft or loose make shall not be put into the strong blue first, but 
kept back until the colour is diluted, as a consequence of the other articles, 
which were full of clear water, haxing passed through it. 

As a rule, the fine articles which were washed first will require only a 
medium tint in the water, then a little more blue may be added for the thicker 
cotton work. Soft spongy materials, such as cellular cloth, oatmeal cloths, 
Turkish towelling, etc., will require the merest shade, an excess causing them 
to turn very dark and eventually a permanently bad colour. 

Wringing. 

There are certain rules that must be observed concerning this process, 
one very important point being the attention paid to the position of buttons. 
It is quite possible to use a wringer and still keep buttons both whole and on 
the garment. Of course, where wooden rollers are used, this is not so easy 
as with rubber ones. The clothes should be put through the wringer in the 
order in which they come from the blue, for, if they lie about any length of time, 
they will look streaky. It is as well to wring very fine pieces by hand, and, 
even then, not too vigorously. All articles should be wrung from the ends, 
and not put through the wringer in a lumpy condition. 

Careless wringing not only causes damage to the clothes, but shortens the 
life of the wringer rollers. Pillow-slips, and anything in bag-like form, should 
be wrung from the closed ends, so that the water can flow out of them, other- 
wise it is liable to burst them. In private houses, a few moments spent in 
folding the clothes for wTin.ging is really a great saving of time, for they then 
dry much straighter, and are much less trouble to fold. 

Starching. 

There will be certain articles that will require starching, and these must 
now be attended to. Separate the different classes of articles to be starched, 



40 LAUNDRY WORK 

as those that require to be fairly stiff must be put first into the fresh starch. 
For the making of this, see page 32. The stiffness of various types of garments 
being quite a matter of taste, the articles must be treated according to 
individual requirements ; but as a rule the following order will answer for 
most starched work. 

All thin white pieces should com.e first, such as muslin articles, and lace 
pieces, unless these latter are preferred soft ; then white petticoats and 
thicker blouses ; thirdly, pinafores, etc., which are often made of materials 
that absorb the starch easily, and look ver}' ungainly if too stiff. Next come 
children's frocks and petticoats, and lastly any thick aprons or other articles 
that may be to hand. 

Table linen should be starched in a very much diluted solution. Take a 
portion of the stock mi.xture, see page 32, add at least four times the quantity 
of water, and stir well, so that starch and added water are well mixed. Thin 
table cloths and tray cloths should be done first, and serviettes after all the 
other table linen has been through. Curtains and hangings usually require 
a fair amount of starch, even to make them of medium stiffness. 

If it is at all possible, starch should be used before it has cooled down, 
and all " skin " that may have formed on the top be removed before it is used. 
This is most important, as the least particle of this skin sticking to the clothes 
will make unsightly white patches appear in the ironing, it being almost 
impossible to remove these marks without re-washing. 



CHAPTER VI 

DRYING— FOLDING— MANGLING 

Most people know that outdoor drying is more beneficial to the colour of 
white linen than indoor drying. On the other hand, if the outdoor conditions 
are not good, drying indoors need not be detrimental to the clothes, as it can 
be carried out quite easily and successfully. As far as is at all possible, clothes 
should be dried as soon as they are wrung from rinsing, anything that is likely 
to spoil being attended to first. 




It is most essential that all garments should be shaken out while wet, 
and hung to dry as straight as possible, a little care at this stage being a great 

41 



42 



LAUNDRY WORK 



saving of time and labour. Take a blouse as shown in Fig. 14 as an example. 
The cuffs, collar, and yoke — in this case piped at the edges — are thick sections, 
and should be hung so that they may be exposed as much as possible to the 
air. Parts from which the colour is likely to " run " are thus prevented 
from contact with the rest of the blouse. If hung as in Fig. 15, the thin front 




Fig. 15. 



DRYING— FOLDING— MANGLING 43 

part will become dry long before the cuffs, for instance, because they are both 
hanging together and also because the moisture is draining into them. 

Turkish towels will serve as another instance, for if these are hung without 
being carefully shaken out, they dry harsh and crooked, and the creases 
remain in them until they are washed again ; whereas, if they are well shaken 
out before drying, they are softer and more pleasant to use, and have a very 
much newer appearance. Large articles, such as sheets and table cloths, 
should be hung as square as space permits, as this assists much in the folding 
of these heavy articles. Body linen, shirts, etc., should have the sleeves 
well shaken out, while starched work must be freed from creases, so that the 
parts do not stick together. 

With regard to outdoor drying, it is important to notice the direction of 
the wind when hanging out. If the atmosphere is likely to contain much 
dust, etc., it is not advisable to hang the garments so that the wind blows 
into any of their openings, as smuts and dirt will thus be carried inside the 
garment and come to rest on what is necessarily the right side. As the 
clothes, however, will dry more quickly if hung thus, this plan is usually 
adopted when the air is free from smuts. 

For drying flannels, blankets, etc., see pages 114-17. If collars are washed 
at home, a good plan is to roll them in a dry cloth while wet, and allow them 
to remain until nearly all the moisture is absorbed, when they will be ready 
to be starched. [See page 55.) The ironing will give a more satisfactory 
result if the collars are prepared thus, for no smuts or dust will have 
accumulated in the drying. 

Heavy cotton sheets should be perfectly dried, as the thick material 
holds the slightest moisture, which causes more trouble than is necessary 
with the airing. Cotton towels should also be quite dry, and will require 
scarcely any sprinkling, as the mangle makes quite a good impression 
on this class of goods, even without added moisture. Bath towels should 
be completely dried, for they will then only require folding and putting 
aside for the plain tops to be pressed up. Starched work of any kind should 
be allowed to get thoroughly dry before sprinkling, as the articles iron much 
more easily than when they are only half dried. 

Folding and Mangling. 

It is well to fold all linen as soon as it is dry, rather than allow it to lie 
creased and crumpled. House linen and all plain work should be folded 
neatly for the mangle with corners together, each article being shaken well 
and smoothed out nicely with the hands. 

Sheets should be taken lengthways, right side out, with the two selvedges 
coming together, thus exactly halving the width of the sheet. Complete the 
lengthway fold by putting the centre up parallel with the two edges, so thai 
the width of the sheet is in four. Then halve the length by putting the two 



44 LAUNDRY WORK 

ends together. Repeat this so that the length of the sheet is also in four 
folds. This will be found a convenient size for mangling. 

Table cloths can be folded in a similar manner, but wrong side out, to keep 
the right side fresh, in case of any dust adhering to them because of the extra 
dampness and starch. 

Towels, tea towels, etc., should be folded in half lengthways, right side out, 
so that the two selvedges are together and the hems halved. The two ends 
should then be placed together so that one-fourth of the article is showing. 

Pillow-slips need special attention at the corners, which must be pushed 
out from inside with the finger until they are square. They should be folded 
as just described ; but if they have large or thick buttons, they should not be 
mangled, as buttons are apt to press through and make holes in the slip. 

All linen that is to be mangled needs to be only lightly sprinkled. If an 
ordinary wringing machine, with wooden rollers, is used for mangling, it is 
best to pass something wet through the rollers before commencing to mangle, 
unless the wet clothes have been recently wrung, when the rollers will be moist 
enough. Rollers are apt to split and wear out sooner if the mangling is done 
when they are perfectly dry, and also the impression on the clothes is not 
quite so good. 

In putting articles through the mangle all folds must be perfectly flat 
with the edges of material evenly together, or the process will be a fruitless 
effort. Articles that are not being ironed should be hung to air immediately 
after mangling, for linen put away well aired keeps a much better colour 
than if it is packed in a half-damp condition. Furthermore, it is obviously 
more convenient if stored articles are practically ready for use. 



CHAPTER VII 

IRONING AND FOLDING HOUSEHOLD LINEN 

When commencing to iron, it is a satisfactory plan to clear off all heavy 
articles that have been mangled, and which will need a considerable time to 
air, before starting the lighter and fancier articles, which take up more room, 
but require less airing. Sheets, towels, and similar articles have a more 
pleasing appearance and a smoother feel if pressed with an iron after 
mangling. Thev need not be unfolded, but special attention should be paid 
to the hems and edges. Table cloths should be ironed all over on the right 
side, and kept as straight as possible in the ironing. 

To Fold Table Cloths. 

Place the selvedges parallel with each other so that the cloth is in halves 
wrong side out, as in Fig. 16. 



/i^eLuectaCS. 



He 



m. 



WTong Side 



'^■^ Fold. 




Fig. 16. 



Then lay the centre fold parallel with the two selvedges, the cloth still being 
on the wrong side. [See Fig. 17.) 

45 



46 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Now bring the outer selvedge A, in Fig. 17, forward and up, so that the cloth 

is right side out, with one edge on each side of the centre fold. (See Fig. 18.) 

At this stage the cloth should be laid on the table lengthways, and pressed 

on both sides of the folds, so that the edges and the centre of the cloth are 

creased quite evenly as they lie together. 

The ends of the cloth should then be placed together, so that the length is 
halved ; but no iron should be used for pressing, as these creases are best 



A. 



K' 



h. 



t 



Htms. 



1'^ FoU. 
Wroncj Side. 



z""-^ Fold. 



/7e 



-n^S. 



Fig. 17. 



not clearly defined. Repeat this, until the cloth is folded conveniently for 
packing away. 

In the laundry trade this is termed " booking," and is quite the most 




^^r.U 



_^e]jrtdvj- 



Seifr-edje. 



J-^ FclcL. 



■^r.K. 




Fig. is. 



convenient way of folding table cloths, as they will " set " so much better 
on the table than if they were folded plainly like a sheet. Fig. 19 shows 



IRONING AND FOLDING HOUSEHOLD LINEN 



47 



the difference when the cloth is opened on the table, between the resulting 
creases of the " booking " or " screen-fold " method, as it is sometimes called 
{see Fig. 18), and those of a table cloth folded sheet-wise. 





' f P»/>//'//>J 




Fig. \9. 



Ironing Serviettes. 

These should also be ironed perfectly square, and made absolutely dry 
before being folded. One method is to iron them lightly on both sides, thus 
making them almost equally glossy. Another way is to work only on the 

4— (635) 



48 



LAUNDRY WORK 



right side, and to gloss it, while leaving the wrong side quite dull and " flat." 
The advantage in use is that the serviette is less likely to sHp from the lap 
than if it is shiny on both sides. 

Folding Serviettes. 

As regards this, either of the two following ways is usual. 

" Three and Four " or " Three and Three." 

For the first method. The selvedge should run parallel with the edge of 
the table, as in Fig. 20. 




Fig. 20. 



At a third of the distance up the hems make a fold by nipping up a piece 
of the material at each end between the thumb and first finger, letting the 
second finger rest inside the crease thus formed. {See Fig. 21.) 



3 • 



Stlvedqt. 



Thuml 







TslUc 



Fig. 21. 



IRONING AND FOLDING HOUSEHOLD LINEN 



49 



Take this fold over to meet the selvedge as in Fig. 22, and press. 
With the left hand bring the hem on that side over, exactly on the 



Syhitdqe ■ 




iclotiyt 



Edge oi Talrk. 
Fig. 22. 



right-hand hem. Obviously in Fig. 23 the edges cannot be drawn exactly one 
over the other, or one would be hidden. 



■Ri- Slit 



Wrong 



Fro. 23. 



He-mi. 



It will be found an easier movement for the left wrist to make the fold 
from left to right, rather than from right to left. In this way the right hand is 
free to grasp the iron. In Fig. 24, A indicates the next movement, which brings 



-«< 


^^^ 


~~T~1 








If 








g dtSUe. 


l?t SUt. 


























"^li 


4. 


. J 




Fig. 24. 



the top hems on to the centre fold, and the right side uppermost. At B the 
loii-'er hems have been turned under to the left, until they are parallel with 
the others. The whole of the folded serviette is now right side out, and should 
be pressed on both surfaces. 

For the second method (" Three and Three ") proceed as illustrated in Figs. 



50 



LAUNDRY WORK 



20, 21 and 22, and then make a fold one-third of the length from the left end ; 
place it to the right-hand hems as in Fig. 25, and well press. 



Htmi 



Left 




Fig. 25. 



Fancy Folding. 

There are very many ways of arranging serviettes to give a dainty appear- 
ance to the table when laid ; but only one is suggested here, as fancy folding 
is really the work of those who have charge of the table. Perhaps the simplest 
method is to fold as in Fig. 22, then halve the width and lightly crease to secure 
equal divisions. Now open the ser\-iette right out, and refold fan-fashion. 




Fig. 26. 

as in Fig. 26. It is then usually placed in a tumbler, after having been lightly 
folded in halves lengthwise. 

Tray Cloths. 

These should have lace or embroidery well pressed on a flannel pad, and 
should be folded in halves so that the first crease runs lengthways, and then 
should be halved the reverse way. 

D'Oyleys and Small Mats. 

These should not be folded after ironing, but kept perfectly flat. 

Sideboard Cloths and Duchesse Covers. 

When these are long and an unbroken appearance is desired, they 
should be rolled and not folded in creases. 



IRONING AND FOLDING HOUSEHOLD LINEN 



51 



Afternoon Tea Cloths. 

These cloths, if large, can be folded in the same way as table cloths ; but, 
if fairly small, folding in three each way, as for serviettes, is effective and 
convenient. 

Bed-spreads and Counterpanes. 

These are easier to place on beds if folded " book fashion " as for table 
cloths. 

Turkish Towels. 

These should not be ironed, as before mentioned, except on the plain tops, 
and the fringes must be well straightened out by shaking. 

Pillow-slips. 

These will require ironing on both sides, and the tapes straightening out. 
They are best folded in hah-es widthways, and in halves again the reverse way. 





Fig. 27, 



52 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Many prefer to fold frilled slips in three each way ; but by this method there 
is a portion of frill projecting on all sides, which, although looking rather nice, 
is somewhat inconvenient, owing to there being no plain portion of which to 
take hold. Also more creases appear when the case is on the pillow than with 
the first method described for plain slips. 

Lace and Muslin Curtains 

These should be ironed on the wrong side, which both raises the pattern and 
gives the material a much newer look. A good plan for the finishing of lace 
curtains is to pin them out into shape [see Fig. 27), allow them to get almost 
dry, and then press lightly. When " got up " by this method, lace curtains 
have not such a stiff appearance as when they are ironed quite damp, and 
they will also be much straighter. 

If muslin curtains have frills that require goffering after the curtain has 
been ironed, the wide frill should be goffered first, the heading being left until 
last. [See Fig. 28.) This is a saving of time, inasmuch as, while the wide 



( 




frill is being done, the heading, which is generally somewhat thick, is drying 
out, and will, therefore, be much easier to goffer. 

Net Curtains. 

These are always somewhat difficult to get straight ; but if the curtain, 
or any article that is made of net, is laid out, wrong side uppermost and ironed 
in a diagonal fashion across the net, it will be found very much easier to get 
the required shape and straightness. (See Fig. 29.) 



IRONING AND FOLDING HOUSEHOLD LINEN 



53 



All curtains should be commenced at the bottom corner, the length being 
placed along the table with the bottom edge at right angles. The ironer 
should commence by " setting " the edge of the curtain along the front of 
the table and then work carefully back to the first corner. In ironing 




^VroTiQ Side. 
^ 3 *V- Bononx, 




Fig. 29. 

curtains of any description it is necessary to guard against using the iron too 
vigorously and thus stretching the fabric. Also, after lowering the first 
portion ironed so that the next piece can be done, care must be taken that 
a ridge is not made where the second " stretch " is commenced. 

Madras Curtains. 

These should have little or no starch put into them, and should be ironed 
on the wrong side, the frills being plainly ironed out ; but the headings should 
be nicely goffered. 



CHAPTER VIII 
PREPARING FINE WORK FOR IRONING 

BODY LINEN— SHIRTS COLLARS— WAISTCOATS, ETC. 

When getting this class of work ready for finishing after it has been washed 
and dried, it is necessary to prepare it some time previous to ironing, to ensure 
that the garments have an even dampness all over. If this precaution is not 
taken, and the materials are at all harsh, there will be rough patches left 
under the iron. 

Commence by lightly and evenly sprinkling the boiled starch work that 
has been dried, and roll each article up loosely, keeping it on the wrong side. 
If the garments are at all creased, do not pull them out while dry, as this would 
remove the stiffness and render them limp and raggy when finished. 

After these have been damped, procure a httle thin boiled starch for frills 
of body linen, night-dresses, etc. Use just a little of the stock solution, 
adding at least two or three times the amount of water. Care must be taken 
that onlv the frill is dipped into the starch, and not the thick bands or cahco 
parts of the garments, or the effect will be ungainly, and the garments will be 
very uncomfortable in wear. Take, for instance, a night-dress, with frills on 
neck, front, and sleeves : dip the fingers lightly into the prepared weak starch 
and slightly dampen all the frills, taking care not to touch the plain parts with 
starchy fingers. This method is better than dipping the frills in the starch, 
and wringing them out, unless they are required very stiff. Frills on knickers, 
chemise or camisole tops are quite satisfactory if made firm with starch in 
this way. 

If frills of pillow-shps are required stiff for goffering, they are best wrung 
out of the starch, care being taken that no part of the pillow-slip is starched 
also. If night-dresses and thick body linen are folded and mangled they will 
then be much easier to iron ; but all fine work is best left on the wrong side and 
rolled down. 

To fold night-dresses for the mangle, commence by placing the two side 
seams together and smooth out all wrinkles, sprinkling very lightly and evenly. 
Fold the length of the garment in halves by placing the yoke part to the bottom 
hem, lay the sleeves flat across the front one on the other, and fold length- 
ways once more. The night-dress will then be in halves widthways, and in four 
lengthways, with the sleeves folded neatly straight across inside. Folded 
thus the garment will be in quite a convenient size for mangling. If the 
night-dresses have pearl buttons they should not be mangled. Chemises 
can be folded in the same way minus the sleeves, while knickers should be 

54 



PREPARING FINE WORK FOR IRONING 55 

folded from the seam, with both legs together, folding the length in halves, and 
then again. 

If articles are carefully folded and well mangled, a great deal of assistance 
is given to the ironing ; but carelessness in these matters actually makes 
the finishing more difficult and less satisfactory- 
Camisoles and similar garments should not be mangled, for usually they 
are so curved and shapely that folding straight for the mangle is almost 
impossible. 

If any small pieces require " raw " starching, this should now be done. 
Suppose there are a few small pieces that require to be stiffened for which raw 
starch, such as has previously been made for collars, will do nicely, then take 
a small quantity of the stock, and add water as for stiffness required. Equal 
quantities of water and starch will make lace or muslin pieces too stiff for most 
people's hking, two parts water to one part stock solution gives a medium 
stiffness. Three parts water to one part starch is sufficient for lace jabots, 
ties, etc., which merely require stiffening as when they were new. 

For successful finishing of fine work, there is no hard and fast rule as to 
stiffness. Apart from the requirements of the materials, there is to be con- 
sidered the taste of the person who wears or uses the articles : therefore a little 
forethought will add both to the appearance of the garment and to the delight 
of the owner. 

Starching Collars. 

Before doing this, see that the starch is thoroughly stirred and that no 
sediment remains at the bottom. If it has been standing for some time, strain 
through a muslin in case of dust having settled on it. The collars must be 
well rubbed in so that the linen absorbs the starch thoroughly, or they will 
" blister " in ironing. Only one or two must be put into the starch at a time, 
and the mixture stirred fairly often, as raw starch has a tendency to settle, 
so that if any collars were left at the bottom of the vessel, they would get the 
lumpy starch on them, while those being rubbed in would only get the weaker 
solution at the top. 

. After the collars are starched, each should be placed flat on the table, 
held with the left hand, and rubbed briskly with a clean cloth. After 
" rubbing down " they should be laid in a dry cloth and be wrung. If the 
starching is properly managed, it matters not how much of the moisture is 
squeezed out afterwards, they will still be stiff, and the drier they are — up 
to a certain point — the more successfully will they iron. 

Starching Shirts. 

It is necessary to stiffen the fronts and cuffs of these garments without 
making the body part at all starchy. Take the front and fold it in halves, 
taking care that the collar-band is folded so that it will absorb the starch, 



56 



LAUNDRY WORK 



but the yoke part be kept as soft as possible. See Fig. 30 for methods of placing 
shirt for starching. 

Thoroughly rub in the front, and wring well. Do not squeeze the starched 
parts in between the fingers, but wring them with a firm twisting motion of the 




Fig. 30. 

hands, as indicated in Fig. 30 (a). This is absolutely necessary, because, if the 
starch is just squeezed through the linen, and the shirt happens to be of fairly 
thick te.xture, the starch will settle in between the folds of the linen and cause 
much trouble under the iron. The cuffs should be neatly folded and can both 
be starched at once, care being taken that the staich does not go beyond the 
gathers of the sleeves. 

When rolling down shirts a clean brush is necessary to remove any traces 
of starch that may be on the body part, round the front and cuffs. Lay the 
shirt on the table with the front uppermost and the shoulder part furthest 



PREPARING FINE WORK FOR IRONING 



57 



away from the edge, so that the whole front that has been starched is exposed 
to view. Make the brush fairly wet, and by its aid remove the traces of 
starch round the sides of the front where it has soaked out ; however, care 
must be taken that the wet brush does not go on the front itself, for the least 
spot of water often causes the several thicknesses of linen to come apart in 
ironing. 




Fig. 30 (a 



After the front is wetted all round, the yoke must be damped with the brush 
to remove the unnecessary starch. The sleeve parts above the starched 
cuffs must be treated similarly. No extra dampening will be necessary after 
scrubbing in this way, for the removing of superfluous starch usually causes 
quite enough water to be used ; in fact care has to be taken not to make the 
shirts unduly wet. After this, they should be neatly rolled up with the front 
and cuffs inside. 

Waistcoats. 

These are also best starched after drying, and require much care. As a 
rule they are disliked when very stiff. In any case only the fronts should 



58 



LAUNDRY WORK 



be starched, and the back left quite soft. Fold the waistcoat in halves, with the 
two fronts face to face. Dip into the starch, and wring out as dry as 
possible, holding as in Fig. 31. They should be starched in a very weak 



^#!WJ/|| 




Fig. 31. 



solution, in fact with only just enough raw starch in the water to make it 
look " milky." About half a pint of collar starch to 2 quarts of water will 
give as much stiffness as most men like, with a result similar to the 
" new " finish. 

If a waistcoat is starched and wrung by hand, and seems too wet for 
ironing, it can be put through the wringer quite easily without allowing the 
starch to soak into the back part. Keep the two fronts together and put 
the back, which is dry, through the wringer first, so that the fronts get squeezed 



PREPARING FINE WORK FOR IRONING 59 

last. If the garment is then rolled up with the fronts inside, the back will 
only just be made firm with the slight dampening of starch it will absorb. 

Evening Ties. 

As a rule gentlemen do not like these stiff. The weak solution that has 
been used for waistcoats will be about the required strength. For thin cravats 
that require folding, use about double the quantity of starch, i.e., about 
1 pint to 2 quarts of water. 



CHAPTER IX 

PROCESSES USED IN FINISHING 

PLAIN IRONING^GOFFERING— CRIMPING— PLEATING— 
POLISHING— USE OF LACE PUNCH 
Plain Ironing. 

In carrying out any type of hand work, the most skilful way of using 
the ordinary tools needs impressing on beginners, especially if they have 
already experimented by themselves and have not succeeded in discovering 
the methods calculated to produce the best results. Thus, even the ordinary 
flat-iron may be clumsily used, or may be managed with the utmost delicacy. 
It goes without saying that the ironer must be able to calculate the heat neces- 
sary for various fabrics ; but she also must know how to place the work on 
the table, and should have an intelligent grasp of the shape and structure 
of the garment or article with which she is dealing. In this way, not only 
will a satisfactory result be obtained, but her own time and energy will be 
economized. 

Ironing is admitted to be somewhat trying work, because necessarily much 
heat is involved ; but orderly procedure and good methods will prevent the 
worker from getting into a flurried state of mind, and suffering physically 
from all the ill effects which getting into a muddle is apt to cause. 

Besides considering the make of the garment or article which is being 
laundered, another extremely important point to study is the grain of the 
material of which it is fashioned. Take, for instance, a skirt that has gored 
seams. In certain cases the back of the skirt will be entirely on the " cross," 
therefore it can be stretched to almost any length. Iron this carelessly, 
allowing the seams to " sag " down just as they will, and the result is a most 
unsightly, uneven length when on the wearer. On the other hand, take these 
crossway seams into consideration, and, in ironing, see that they are not allowed 
to stretch in length. Prevent stretching by spreading the material across the 
skirt board and ironing backwards and forwards, not up and doivn the board. 
By this means the skirt can be kept as even in length as the most fastidious 
wearer can possibly desire. 

Another instance may be given of a blouse that has no collar band, but 
finishes off at the neck with a little edging of some sort. The Magyar blouse, 
at present popular, will be a good illustration of this. If the plain shoulders 
and neck parts of these blouses are badly ironed, they are not only uncom- 
fortably large round the neck, but look most unsightly. If the blouse is made 

60 



PROCESSES USED IN FINISHING 



61 



of muslin, and will, therefore, be starched more or less, the grain of the material 
should be followed in ironing. The best plan is to reverse the order of ironing 
blouses cut thus, and place the top part to the right hand, shape the neck 
part carefully, and then iron towards the waist line, allowing the neck of the 
blouse to shrink rather than to stretch. 

In commencing to iron anv garment, always begin on a straight seam or 
edge, allowing the front hne of the table to guide the work. The very fact 
of the garment to be ironed being in a moist condition enables the worker 
to pull the material into almost any shape she desires. Even a plain hnen 
apron can be made to look neat and dainty, if the iron be only made to follow 
intelligently the grain of the material ; on the other hand, a most charming 
muslin dress can be rendered unattractive if attention is not paid to this point. 

Goffering. 

Irons for this purpose can be procured in various sizes. For fine lace and 
muslin, or for small frills, very fine ones should be used, while for thick 
embroidery work, a coarser make is all that is necessary. {See Fig. 1 1 , page 29.) 
To obtain perfectly even and firm frills a certain amount of stiffening must 
previously be put into them, or the time and labour spent on goffering will 




Fig. ;-2 



62 



LAUNDRY WORK 



be entirely thrown away. If starch is objected to, frihs should be either 
pleated or crimped instead of goffered. 

In some cases garments will look quite nice if the frills are simply ironed 
out. If they have been starched and require goffering, commence by ironing 
them out sufficiently to put them into shape. If they are of embroidery, 
well press the ornamented part and scallops, but leave the plain cotton part 
quite damp. If the frills are of thin muslin, lightly steam them into shape 
so that they are about half dry. Ironing frills perfectly dry for goffering is 
waste of time, as they will require dampening again for a good result to be 
obtained. Heat the irons, and before using them try them on a piece of 
paper. An expert ironer can safely use them very hot, but much damage 
may be caused if an inexperienced worker uses them carelessly and without 
testing. 

Place the frill at the edge of the table to commence goffering, always 




Fig. 33. 



PROCESSES USED IN FINISHING 



63 



beginning at the point nearest the right hand, and working back towards 
the left hand. Put in the irons close to the last flute made. The right hand 
and the goffering irons should be kept on a level with the surface of the table, 
(See Fig. 32.) It will be noticed that the right tong of the iron is on the top, 
the left really being the one which causes the flute when the former closes 
against it. Note should also be taken of the position of the fingers of the right 
hand in the rings and on the handle of the irons. As will be seen by the photo- 
graph, the process is greatly assisted by the pressure e.xerted by the fingers 
of the left hand. 

It is very important to use goffering irons correctly, as they can easily be 
put out of order and become useless ; whereas, with careful and correct treat- 
ment, they will last for years. If they are heated in a fire, do not allow them 




Fig. 34. 



5— (635I 



64 



LAUNDRY WORK 



to get red-hot, or they will become rough and be much more difficult to use. 
{See Fig. 34 for illustration of finished goffering.) 

Crimping. 

This will be found a very pretty and convenient method of treating frills 
which are preferred soft. In preparation for this process, the frills will require 
ironing out smoothly. After this, procure a small piece of flannel or felt, 
and lay the frill in the position shown in Fig. 33. 

The flat-iron used must be practically cold ; this is necessary both for the 
crimping, and on account of the fingers of the left hand having to be pressed 
tightly against the back of the iron to set the crimp marks in the material. 

Commence at the edge of the table, and as the work is completed, draw the 
finished portion over so that it does not get crumpled. Use the extreme edge 
of the back of the iron, and scrape the material, as it were, towards the worker, 
pressing the fingers of the left hand up as the material of the frill gathers 
together. Even really wide frills can be finished off in this way, a little practice 
soon ensuring a good result. 

Starched frills do not crimp at all well. {See Fig. 34 for illustration of 
finished crimping.) 







Rt.T^umt,,,' 



s- 



I rinae7». 



Fig. 35. 



Pleating, 

This process is suitable for both starched and unstarched frills, and, to 
look at all effective, the pleats require to be very regularly and evenly placed. 



PROCESSES USED IN FINISHING 



65 



and then to be well pressed. {See Fig. 34.) If the frills are set into a circular 
band, it is more convenient to raise the frill on to the end of a sleeve board' 
before commencing to pleat. The frill must first be carefully ironed out, 
and the material made quite straight. {See notes on following grain of 
material on page 60.) 

Commence at the seam or at the end of a frill and put in pleats according 
to the size required, being extremely careful to keep them uniform, and to 
see that the edge of the frill is pleated as deeply as the top, where the pleats 
are put into the band. Unless the frill in question absolutely prevents it, 
always pleat towards the edge of the table {see Fig. 35), and press each few as 
they are put in. Do not use a damper, as pleated frills are very unsightly 
if they are stuck down. 

Fig. 36 serves to show how the material for the next pleat is raised in 
readiness to be folded over. The thumb and first finger of each hand are 
equally concerned in obtaining a straight pleat of even width between the 
hands. 




Polishing. 

This is not practised a great deal in private houses, but a few notes on the 
use of pohshing irons may be to the point. It is essential that they be kept 
clean and smooth, for a good result cannot be obtained if they are allowed to 
get rough, and possibly rusty. To prevent this, rub them over with a little 
wax or clean grease after using, allowing it to cool on them ; but clean it off 
before using the irons again. 

In conjunction with a polishing iron, a special board must be used {see 
pages 27 -8). The " polisher " must be fairly hot when used, or it makes brown 
streaks on the linen and tends to remove the starch. A very little moisture 
is put on to the part to be polished with the aid of a damper. Then the iron 
is applied, the back part being used first {see Fig. 37), until a slight gloss is 
seen all over the portion in hand. 



66 



LAUNDRY WORK 




Fig. 37. 




Fig. 38. 



PROCESSES USED IN FINISHING 



67 



If a shirt front is in process, next use the point of the pohsher, and work 
well into the ridges round the front, down button-holes and round the neck 
band. Fig. 38 shows the nose of the iron being similarly used on a collar. 
Then use the heel part of the polisher again, and go over the shirt front the 
reverse way. Therefore it will be seen that the polisher would be used (1) 
up and down the front, and (2) across the front. In this way the marks of 
the iron are not visible, the reverse action causing an even gloss. The centre, 
or flat part of a polishing iron should not be used by novices, the " heel " 
and the point ensuring a much better result. 

Lace Punching. 

Irish lace, which is so popular in these days, usually has many beautifully 
raised flowers and discs necessitating the use of a lace punch to throw them 
into relief after washing. (Fig. 39.) In some cases the lace will require 
ironing lightly before using the punch, but in others pulhng out is all that is 




Fig. 39. 

necessary. The lace must always be dry, the raising of the pattern being left 
until the last. The bulb end of the punch {see Fig. 12, page 30) should be 
heated slightly, and a piece of flannel should be used as a pad. Each raised 
■ part is treated separately, care being taken that the threads of the lace are not 
broken as the punch is inserted from the wrong side into the part to be raised. 
It is well to work near the edge of the table, and to see that the " leaves " 
of the flowers are turned in the right chrection before inserting the punch 
in the centre of the " rose." Draw the " flower " very carefully up around 
the bulb of the punch, as shown in Fig. 40. 

Many kinds of lace are greatly improved by having the raised parts treated 
in th's way. 



68 



LAUNDRY WORK 




Fig. -JU. 
Egg Irons. 

These are not used so largely as in former years, although in many well- 
equipped laundries there are varieties of shapes in steam-heated irons for 
doing sleeves, puffings, and parts of garments that are difficult to get at by 
ordinary means. An Egg Iron {see Fig. 13, page 31) that is used in a stand, 
and heated in the gas or on top of a stove, is an extremely useful accessory, 
both at home and in the laundry. For instance, tiny sleeves of little babies' 
frocks, crowns of hats or bonnets, etc., can be negotiated very easily with 
the aid of one of these irons. The iron should be moderately heated, and the 
part to be ironed made fairly damp and drawn carefully over it, the material 
being gently pulled downwards with both hands, so that it is stretched tightly 
over the ball of the iron and creases are not allowed to form. It is best to test 
the heat of the iron with a piece of thin calico before using, as the class of work 
that would be done with this iron very quickly scorches. 



CHAPTER X 

IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 

NIGHT-DRESSES— CHEMISES— KNICKERS— CAMISOLES- 
COMBINATIONS— HANDKERCHIEFS 

One of the essential aims in the ironing and folding of body linen is to retain 
the firmness of the material ; otherwise it will be found that when the garments 
are finished they have a " flabby " feeling and appearance. The pleats 
which have been put in will not remain, and the whole wll have an ill-finished 
and untidy appearance. 

Ironing a Night-dress. 

Commence by folding the back in halves from the side seams, letting the 
front and sleeves hang over the edge of the table, with the neck to the left 
hand. (See Fig. 41.) Next turn the back over, until the fold is at the edge 




Fig. 41. 



of the table, and press the second half. A little steam left in will allow for 
pleating and folding. 

The back yoke should now be placed on the back of the night-dress, as 
shown in Fig. 42, care being taken that the skirt part of the garment 
does not touch the floor meanwhile. Fig. 43 shows the position for ironing 
the front yokes should they exist. 

69 



70 



LAUNDRY WORK 




Fig. 42. 




Title. 



Fig 43. 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



71 



If the yoke is of embroidery, it should be re-pressed on the wrong side ; 
Fig. 44 illustrates this. It will be found that a very cool iron is necessary 
for all such parts. 




Fig. 44. 



At this stage the frills are ironed, the worker having previously decided 
whether they will finally be crimped, goffered, or pleated ; since the amount of 
plain ironing needed will depend on the process chosen. (C/. notes on pages 
61-5.) If the front of the night-dress has tucks or insertions, these should 
now be well shaped and pressed from the wrong side, the front opening being 
placed to the edge of the table, as shown in Fig. 45, at A and B respectively. 

Place the night-dress with the front facing the worker ; then take the seam 
of one sleeve and place it parallel with the edge of the table (see Fig. 46), 
keeping the length of the garment from the floor. In ironing the sleeve thus 
from the seam to the fold, it will be found in most cases that the width at the 
armhole is greater than at the wrist. In this case it is best to leave the top 
plainly ironed, and to see that the point of the iron reaches well into the 
gathers. When setting in the pleats at the cuff, as illustrated in Fig. 47, they 
should be slanted off to about half the length of the sleeve, and re-pressed 
on both sides. In cotton garments, if one side of the sleeve is pressed and it is 
turned over, the pleats may be put in before the second side is ironed. The 
material will then have a firmer appearance, and the pleats will remain in position 
while the rest of the garment is being finished. 



72 



LAUNDRY WORK 




Fig. 45. 



The second sleeve should be treated similarly, but on the opposite side of 
the body of the night-dress, which is still kept in the same position. The 
remaining portions of the garment should now be ironed with the collar 




IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



73 



placed to the ironer's left hand, and care should be taken at this point that 
the front, collar, and yoke set nicely. This will be found of great assistance 
in the folding. Frills should be finished off next by goffering, etc. 




Fig. 47. 



Folding a Night-dress. 

The collar should again be placed to the left hand, and the back be pleated 
from the inside, according to fullness, as far down as the front opening will 
allow. {See Fig. 48.) Put the side seams together, place them at the edge of 




Fig. 48. 



74 



LAUNDRY WORK 



the table, and draw the front over until it is in the position indicated in 
Fig. 49. The method of accomplishing this is similar to that employed when 




fdje "/ Tui/e 



Fig. 49. 



folding a flannel shirt; thus the photograph on page 124 may be referred to 
in this connection. 

Pleats should then be put in, one or two each way, to convert the front 
into a wide bo.x pleat. Should the opening be made so that the right side 
wraps over the left, this extra pleat should be continued to the bottom hem. 



Ctntrt FfonC PIrat. 




Fig. 30. 



Fig. 50 shows the bottom of pleats. These having been ie;ell pressed, 
turn the garment over, and arrange the gore portions centrally as in Fig. 51. 




Fig. 51. 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



75 



The sleeves should be arranged with the seams l^dng parallel with the 
fold of the garment, which will bring the upper gathered portion facing the 
worker. {See Fig. 52.) Next place the edge of the left hand on the sleeve as 




Fig. 52. 



indicated by the arrow, and smartly turn the cuff portion into the position 
shown in Fig. 53. The second sleeve is now similarly placed, but the top 




Fig. 53. 



76 



LAUNDRY WORK 



of it covers that previously arranged. (See A in Fig. 54.) It will be under- 
stood that meanwhile the pleats previously made above the cuff are to be 
kept neatly in place. 

About one-third of the length of the night-dress should now be folded 
towards the top. {See B in Fig. 54.) When making the next fold place the left 




Fig. 54. 



hand on the pleated hems to keep them rigidly in place (C in Fig. 54), while 
the right hand grasps the folds at D, which now are laid on the collar. 

[Note. — The wrong side of the night-dress is now uppermost, and 
amateurs very frequently experience some little difficulty in reversing it 
satisfactorily without spoiling the effect of the previous processes.] 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



77 




Fig. 55. 



In order to turn the folded garment right side uppermost without dis- 
turbing pleats or folds, it will be found convenient to place the knuckles of 
the left hand down on the article with the finger tips pointing to the worker, 
as in diagram 55 ; while the right hand, with the thumb and little finger 
uppermost, grasps the folds at E, and lifts them, turning the garment forward 
towards the worker over the left wrist. The palm of this hand finally rests 
on the table under the work, with the fingers pointing away. (Fig- 56.) 
The cuffs, which are now as in Fig. 57, A, must both be folded as at B. It 
IS well to fasten one button to keep the front in position. 
Fig. 58 shows the garment finished. 



78 



LAUNDRY WORK 




Fig. 56. 




Fig. 57. 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



79 




Fig. 58. 



Ironing a Chemise. 

Fold the back in halves, and iron from the seams as for night-dress [cj. 
Fig. 41). The bands should be pressed on both sides, sections being placed 
parallel with the edge of the table for this purpose. Should there be an 
embroidered yoke or straps, these must be ironed at this stage, and from the 
wrong side. (Fig. 59.) Frills or lace edgings must be smoothed out in 
readiness for the finishing process. 

If the chemise has plain sleeves they can be ironed perfectly flat with 
the rest of the garment ; but should they be short and full, and set into a 
band, the easiest way is to do them on a sleeve board, and in some cases their 
appearance is improved by the fullness being set into small pleats. 
6— (635) 



80 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Folding a Chemise. 

After goffering the lace, or otherwise finishing the frilHngs, the folding can 
be proceeded with as follows : Spread the garment out, so that the whole 
is on the table, with the front uppermost, and form the back into as many 
pleats as the fullness demands. The front meanwhile must be turned off the 
back as far as the shape of the garment will allow. (Fig. 60.) After pressing 
these to keep them in position, dispose of the fullness of the front part in pleats, 
independently of the back ones, and press. (Fig. 61.) 

Ne.xt turn the chemise completely over, so that the back is uppermost, 
and fold the side seams towards each other as in Fig. 62. 

If there are sleeves, they should be turned back to show beyond the front, 




as at A in that figure. To finish folding the length, proceed exactly as for 
night-dress. {Sec page 76.) 

[Note. — The foregoing two methods of folding may be used either for 
night-dresses or for chemises, and beginners are most strongly advised to practise 
each method for both the types of garments, whatever variations in " make " 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



81 



there may be in them. It will be seen from the accompanjang sketches that 
chemises may be closed or open down the front, be yoked or have merely a 
neck-band, and be either with or without sleeves. Night-dresses, on the other 
hand, may have turned-down collars, be cut low in the neck, be yoked, or 



Back 
?ka.tt4. 




Fig. 60. 



be Magyar in style, etc. Whatever the precise structure of the garments in 
question may be, the latter method of folding is preferred in many laundries 
for both articles ; but if the former is adopted and the two results compared, 



82 



LAUNDRY WORK 




£dgc of Tallt 



Fig. 61. 

they will be found practically the same. In many cases the first method is 
much easier, and the material will be firmer, because it has not been handled 
so many times.] 




Fig. 62. 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



83 



Ironing a Camisole. 

In these days of dainty lingerie, camisoles form quite an important item, 
and being, as a rule, of fairly fine texture, require very careful handling both 
in the washing and ironing. A fairly cool iron will be necessary, owing to the 
parts being quite small. Bands, strings, and thick parts should be pressed 
first, and then trillings and embroidery. 




Fig. 63. 



If the camisole has a shaped, embroidered or fancy top, with no neck band, 
and with the waist set into a basque, care must be taken that the upper part 
is suitably placed in position for ironing. In this case it is best to have the 
waistband to the left hand (Fig. 63) and, after shaping the shoulders and top 
on the wrong side, to iron towards the waist-line. Fig. 64 shows the plain back 
being ironed on the right side. 

If the garment has no waistband or basque, commence with the button 
side at the edge of the table {see Fig. 65), and iron from waist to neck across 



84 



LAUNDRY WORK 




£dqc of IclLIc . 



Iqc of I 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



85 



the whole garment on the right side. Sleeves, if any, should be left until the 
rest of the bodice has been ironed. Tucks will require carefully pressing and 
turning in the right direction. 

Edgings having been previously pressed should now be goffered , and, 
following this, the camisole may be " topped-up " from the wrong side, to 
remove any disfiguring creases, should they have appeared. Sleeved garments 
can advantageously be finished off from the inside, so that the roughness may be 
removed from the seams and armholes without injuring the previously finished 
sleeves. 

Folding a Camisole. 

Place the bodice with the wrong side uppermost, and the top to the left 
hand. Fold the button side over on to the back, as in Fig. 66. 




Fig. 66. 



LAUNDRY WORK 
Raise the button-hole side on to the left front (Fig. 67), lapping one side 



f^g>- .■/ THlc. 



Fig. 67. 

slightly over the other to hold the garment together and obviate the need 
for buttoning. 




fdqe of \aHt. 



Fig. 68. 
Turn the bodice over with the back uppermost (Fig. 68), without creasing 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



87 



the front. Fold in a portion towards the centre from each under-arm 
seam. 




Fig. 69. 




Fig. 70. 
Complete the folding by doubling in halves lengthways. {See A in Fig. 7L 




Fig. 71. 



88 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Should there be sleeves, thev will be turned outwards before the last fold 
is made, so that the trillings show on either side of the garment. (Sec B in 
Fig. 71.) This is shown in Fig. 69, and also in Fig. 70, which indicates the 
appearance of the garment when the width-way folding is finished. 

Ironing Knickers. 

Keep the garment on the wrong side, and commence by ironing both sides 
of the waistbands, placing them in sections along the edge of the table. If 
tapes are attached, iron these next, and if kneebands are embroidered, these 
must be brought to the front of the table, as in Fig. 72, and pressed in the 




Fig. 72. 



double, still on the wrong side. Before ironing the frills turn the knickers 
right side out, as the wrong side of the trillings can be ironed very much more 
easily in this way. (Fig. 73.) 




Fig. 73. 



Next place the waistband to the left hand and iron the top part, right 
round the garment, from the inside, so that the point of the iron runs up into 
the gathers. (Fig. 74.) 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



89 



fdijC o 




Fig. 74. 




Fig. 75. 



90 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Turn the knickers round, so that the knees are to the left hand, and iron 
flat from the leg seam and seat up to where the material has previously been 
pressed from the inside. (Fig. 75.) The material is double, hence wall require 
ironing on both sides. When the knickers are perfectly smooth and free from 
creases, the frillings, if any, should be proceeded with by whatever method is 
desired. {See pages 61-65 for crimping, goffering or pleating.) 

Folding Knickers. 

Place the two leg seams of the knickers evenly together, bringing the hip 
side to the edge of the table, with the back of the garment outside. (Fig. 76.) 
If there are gathers at the kneebands, as many pleats as necessary should now 
be put in, being folded towards the worker from waist to knee, as in the 




Fig. 76. 



sketch. All four thicknesses of material are pleated together, so that the 
garment lies perfectly flat on the table after the pleats have been well pressed 
from both sides. Now part the two legs of the knickers, and press each set 
of pleats on the reverse side. 

Replace the two halves in their previous position, and fold the crutch part 
over as in Fig 77. The length of the knickers should now be folded nto 




lalh^ 



Fig. 77. 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



91 



thirds, the first fold being in the direction of the arrow A (Fig. 78), and the 
second as arrow B. If the knees are much frilled, turn one back as shown by 
arrow C. that both may be displayed. 




Fig. 78. 



[Note. — It is quite permissible to pleat each leg separately, but the above 
will be found an easy and quick way of getting the pleats uniform in width 
and position. An added firmness also results on account of the lesser amount 
of handling.] 

Ironing and Folding Cotton Combinations. 

Take the top part first, and iron as for a camisole, ignoring the legs ; 
and then treat the lower part exactly as for knickers. 

After attending to whatever frills there may be, proceed with the folding 
thus : Place the seams of the knicker part evenly together, and pleat 
through the four thicknesses in the same way as is shown in Fig. 76. After 
pressing these pleats, so that this lower part is finished, attend to the bodice 
by placing the centre seam of the back quite straight. (Fig. 79.) 

It will now be found that there is a portion of the back part of the garment 
that will not lie flat ; this should be put into a neat fold as in Fig. 81. 

Now turn the garment over, so that the button side is uppermost, and fold 
the crutch over, as in Fig. 80. 



92 



LAUNDRY WORK 







k" 

<-«-. 






IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



93 




94 



LAUNDRY WORK 



The knee bands should now be brought over towards the left hand, till they 
project slightly beyond the shoulder. By again folding lengthwise, the garment 

Fold. 




Fig. 81. 

is divided into four. The finished appearance, on the right side, is shown in 
the photograph. (Fig. 82.) 




Fig. 82. 



Ironing Handkerchiefs. 

Although these are small and plain articles to deal with, a few words on 
the subject may be useful. Most people appreciate fresh, dainty-looking 



IRONING AND FOLDING BODY LINEN 



95 



handkerchiefs, and much may be done to ensure their being thus. They 
should not be dried after wringing, but be rolled in a clean dry cloth, and 
left for some time. Commence by spreading perfectly flat and square on the 
table, ready to be ironed on the wTong side. The hems should not be ironed 
round separately, because, if the hemstitching is at all tightly drawn, the edges 
will have the appearance of a frill when finished. 

Initials or embroidery should be firmly pressed while the wrong side is 
being ironed. When the handkerchief is practically dry, turn it completely 
over and pass the iron lightly over the right side, but not on the initials or 
embroidery. Handkerchiefs ironed in this way have a much fresher and newer 
appearance than if they are ironed on the right side only. 

Folding Handkerchiefs. 

These articles can be folded in various ways, the plainer methods being 
most useful for counting and packing away. Making four folds each way 
is quite a recognised method for ordinary plain ones. Turn the square wrong 
side uppermost, and fold the two corners nearest the edge of the table to meet 






Fig. 83. 



i^- 



7— (635) 



96 



LAUNDRY WORK 



the opposite two, as in Fig. 83, A. Place the middle fold up to the corners, 
as in B, then halve as in C, and again as in D. Each successive fold should 
be pressed with a moderately warm iron to set the creases. 

Making three folds each way is another much used plan, but this is not 
to be recommended, for when handkerchiefs are folded thus they are not so 
convenient to handle, as on all sides folds and hems occur together, and there- 
fore the handkerchiefs are less easy to hold, and also are more likely to come 
unfolded. 

A very pretty style for small, dainty, embroidered handkerchiefs is that of 
first folding them into four, wrong side out, as shown at A in Fig. 84, then 




Riqkt Side. 



Fig. S4. 



turning one corner back as at B. This method minimises the number of 
creases when the article is spread out, and also is convenient if occasion arises 
for counting fine handkerchiefs. If they are folded by the previous method, 
it is easy to count two as one, or to lift part of one with another. 



CHAPTER XI 
IRONING MUSLIN AND LACE GARMENTS 

There are several general rules that must be observed when ironing these 
articles if they are to look fresh and dainty. The majority of persons have an 
objection to over-stiffened muslin, but, on the other hand, there must be a 
certain amount of firmness in the garment, or it will have a very limp and 
raggy appearance when worn. Here, again, is another instance where the 
grain of the material should be followed by the iron, the contrast being most 
noticeable in this respect between a well ironed and a badly ironed musHn 
or lace article. If the ironer once gets into the habit of following the threads 
of the material, it matters not how amateurish her efforts are, they will soon be 
rewarded by a fair result. 



Ironing a Muslin Blouse. 

The fashion of the garment must be considered before beginning ; for 
instance, if the blouse has a quantity of small tucks, and a certain amount 
of embroidery, it may have to be ironed on the right side first, to set these 




fdqe o^ la.U«. 



Fig. 85. 

tucks nicely into position. On the other hand, the embroidery really calls 
for the blouse to be finished on the wrong side. In this case it will be best 
to have the sleeves turned through to the wrong side, so that the right side 
can be easily reached. 

97 



98 LAUNDRY WORK 

Place the opening of the blouse at the edge of the table, as in Fig. 85. If 
it is fastened at the front, it will be the button or eye side : but if at the back, 
the button-hole or hook side will be treated first. Carefully iron this half 
back or front, not drying it perfectly. Proceed across the blouse in this way, 
taking care that the tucks are eased carefully into place. The iron must not 
be rubbed up and down them, but sideways over them, or they will have 
numberless small creases. To shape the shoulder parts nicely, draw the top 
of the blouse to the edge of the table with the collar hanging over, as in Fig. 86, 
and iron each shoulder separately. 




Fig. 86. 



In many cases the sleeves are not tucked, but are only trimmed with 
■embroidery, and should then be ironed on the wrong side before turning. 
Always commence a sleeve that is set into a cuff by putting this part on to the 
narrow end of a sleeve board as at A in Fig. 87, and ironing it first. Then press 




Fig. 87. 



the lower portion of the sleeve by pushing the board further in, as at B, com- 
mencing from the under-arm seam, and easing the point of the iron well into 
the gathers. Remove this half of the sleeve thus ironed, and place the top 
part on the board, as at C in Fig. 88, again commencing from the seam. When 



IRONING MUSLIN AND LACE GARMENTS 99 

ironing a sleeve in two portions, care must be taken that the marks of 
commencing and finishing do not show in the centre. 

Assuming that the blouse in hand has had the sleeves ironed on the wrong 
side, carefully turn them, and " top up " very lightly on the right side. Then 
proceed to finish off the body part of the blouse. If the embroidery has been 
flattened owing to the tucks being ironed, or has got dry, pass a damper lightly 
over it on the right side, lay a flannel pad on the table, and firmly press it 
all over on the wrong side. It will be found quite easy to do this with the 
sleeves on the right side, but care must be taken that they are not crushed, 
as they are really quite finished. 




Fig. 88. 

An instance of a lace blouse may be useful. The same routine should be 
followed as to ironing, but lace must always be ironed on the wrong side. Of 
course, where there are tucks on a blouse, these are a good guide for straight- 
ness, but in the case of an ordinary lace blouse, there is only the pattern of 
the net or lace to follow. 

It will be found that a lace blouse will very easily stretch lengthways, 
but very seldom in the width ; therefore on no account must the lace be pulled 
down, but always be encouraged to stretch across the garment. Here again 
discretion is needed, or the blouse will have an ungainly and shapeless appear- 
ance. See that the holes in the net part of lace are fairly uniform in size, 
and that the pattern is well pressed and raised. It is surprising how quickly 
one becomes used to the texture of materials if they are looked at intelligently. 

There are several classes of lace blouses which are preferred un-ironed. 
In this case they should have very little or no starch put into them, and must 
not be hung to dry in the ordinary way. The best plan is to pull them carefully 
into shape with the hands, almost as if an iron were being used. When 
all parts of the blouse have been skilfully placed, it should be hung on a 



100 



LAUNDRY WORK 



" shoulder," and allowed to get almost dry, and then be very lightly pressed 
on the wrong side with an extremely cool iron. Irish lace is best if carefully 
ironed before the flowers are raised with a lace punch. For the use of this 
see page 67. 

Muslin Dresses. 

These are a little more complicated as to ironing, but some of the unlined 
ones are quite simple to manage if a little method is used. The blouse part 
should be ironed first, and be practically finished. If the skirt is embroidered, 
and therefore requires ironing on the wrong side, it should be put on to the 
skirt board WTong side uppermost. If there are any frills, these must be pressed 
before the skirt is put on the board, and should be done in order from the 
lowest upwards. An expert ironer will often iron the frills of the skirt, then 
the bodice, and finish off with the skirt; but for amateurs, it is best to advise 
that they iron first the bodice, next the frills, if any, and lastly the skirt. 

Should the skirt have any crossway seams, care must be taken that they 
are not stretched out of shape. It is wise to commence on a straight width 
or seam, and work across the skirt board, away from this, always bringing 
the finished portion towards the ironer. If there are tucks at the hem of the 
skirt, the back of the iron should be pressed down over them, as in Fig. 89, 
so that no creases are caused. 



S.'fLrt Board. 




One finds that all muslin skirts, whether plain or embroidered, are nicer 
when ironed on the wrong side, as the seams can be made so much neater, 
and the material has a newer finish than when it is highly glossed on the 
right side. 

Children's Hats and Bonnets. 

There are so many varieties of styles in children's washing millinery that 
it is hardly possible to give detailed directions for ironing them, but on the 



IRONING MUSLIN AND LACE GARMENTS 



101 



other hand, there are certain rules that may be observed which will greatly 
assist the worker. The outer frills and brim should be ironed first, the crown 
and head-lining next, while goffering or pleating is left until the last. 

If the brim is intended to be fairly stiff and to set out, this should be ironed 
into shape first ; and if there are any frills on this brim, it must be ironed in 
between the frills. This can be managed by bringing it to the edge of the 
table, letting the first frill hang off, and raising the next so that the side of the 
iron smooths the brim in between, doing very small pieces at a time. {See 




Fig. 90. 



A in Fig. 90.) In most cases it is easier to unstitch the full crowns of hats, 
iron the material out, and re-make before completely finishing the ironing. 
If the crown is unlined, an egg iron will often prove an assistance. 



CHAPTER XII 

IRONING AND POLISHING SHIRTS, COLLARS, WAISTCOATS 

The custom of housewives washing and ironing shirts and collars at home 
has gone very much out of fashion of late years, possibly because it takes a 
great amount of practice and skill to satisfy the average man on the question 
of shirts and collars, and also because the housewife's time is occupied in so 
many other ways. Enough has already been said with regard to the importance 
of carefully preparing stiff-fronted white shirts for ironing. 

Ironing a White Shirt. 

To commence, take the back in halves, and press both sides well (Figs. 109, 1 10) . 
Next, place the yoke on the back (Fig. Ill), and iron carefully with a cool iron, 
without touching the collar band. Place this band into shape (Fig. 112) and 
iron it perfectly smooth and dry, so that the linen stiffens. 

Next place the shirt so that one sleeve is on each side of the front of the 
shirt facing the ironer. Cover the front with the front tail to prevent any 
dust or smuts that may be flying about from settling on it. Now iron both 
cuffs, first steaming them on the wrong side, taking care that the button- 
holes are closed, and that the stitching round the edges is visible. 

It is quite easy to accomplish this, even in a badly made cuff, if the iron is 
eased over the linen to commence with, and not pushed forwards and back- 
wards vigorously. Cuffs in which the linen appears quite full when damp 
may be shrunk perfectly straight with careful ironing. They should not be 
completely dried, but be left slightly steamy, as this will greatly assist the 
pohshing, for which the board mentioned on page 28 is required. 

The polishing iron must be fairly hot in readiness, and with a clean damper, 
just a trifle more moisture must be applied to the surface of the linen. The 
method of imparting a gloss is fully explained on pages 65-7, but it is important 
to emphasize the use of the point of the iron in polishing the ridges round 
the edges of the cuffs. 

After they are well glossed, carefully and lightly pass an iron round the 
wrong side of each cuff to set it into an oval shape. Place the edge of the cuff 
at right angles to the front of the table, with the sleeve to the left, and hold with 
the left hand the end of the cuff farthest from the worker. Run the point of 
the flat-iron lightly along the edge, and with the left hand draw it over the 
handle of the iron as in Fig. 91. After " curling " the cuffs, place the left sleeve 
flat on the table with the seam to the edge, and iron. (Cf. page 122.) 

102 



IRONING AND POLISHING SHIRTS, COLLARS, WAISTCOATS 103 

If there is any fullness set into the cuff, make it into a pleat, slanting it 
off towards the top, and well press. Separate the material if it has stuck 
together, re-press, and proceed with the second sleeve without turning the 
shirt round, so that the sleeves are ironed on the right-hand side and on the 
left-hand side of the garment respectively, the front being kept covered all 
the time. 




Fig. 91. 

To iron the front, turn the garment round so that the collar band is to the 
worker's left hand, pleat in the back, from yoke to hem, according to fullness 
(c/. page 123) and insert a flannel pad in the opening of the front, so that the 
whole of the starched part rests on the pad, and iron the top or left half first 
(Fig. 92.) Before placing the iron on the linen, carefully pull it into shape 




Fig. 92. 



" round" the collar band, and shape this side of the yoke. When ironing keep 
the button-holes closed, ease the linen to avoid creases, and give careful 
attention to the stitching. 

The point of the iron is next placed lightly just below the stud hole of 
the neck-band, and is eased sideways, so that it glides round the band, and then 
back again to below the point of commencement. (See Fig. 93, A.) Then 



104 



LAUNDRY WORK 



send it carefully outwards from the ironer over the rest of this half of the 
front, and it will be found that the linen has been placed perfectly free from 
creases. The side of the iron has been kept parallel with the edge of the table 




Fig. 93. 



throughout, as will be gathered from the path traced by it in diagram Fig. 93, B. 
The lower, or right half of the front should be treated similarly. 

Removing Blisters. 

If the foregoing directions are carefully followed, it will be found that the 
starched linen has a perfectly even and smooth appearance. The iron must be 
carefully pressed into the linen, so that all the four thicknesses of which the 
fronts and cuffs are composed adhere evenly together. It is best to use an 
iron of medium heat ; this, together with the pressure applied, being sufficient 
to burst the grains of the starch, as explained on page 32, and cause the linen to 
have a firm even surface fit for polishing. Should any " bhstering " occur 
which may be caused by the shirts being badly prepared, or through the use 
of too hot or too cold an iron, a " damper " should be dipped into the starch 
that has been used, without stirring the sediment Jrom the bottom, and the blistered 
places be damped with this from the wrong side of the linen. 

After doing this it is necessary to use care, or the second ironing is liable to 
cause brown marks which will be very difficult to remove. Curd soap will be 
found of great assistance in removing specks that may occur on the starched 



IRONING AND POLISHING SHIRTS, COLLARS, WAISTCOATS 105 

fronts, collars, and cuffs under the iron. It should be well rubbed into the 
clean dampering rag, and applied carefully to the surface of the linen. On no 
account must yellow or mottled soap be used for this purpose. 

Polishing. 

Remove the flannel pad and insert a pohshing board in its place. A 
little extra moisture should be applied with a "damper" to the top hall, 
which should be polished first. After the gloss appears quite even, particularly 
in the ridges round the collar band, proceed with the under half in hke manner. 
When the front is completed place the shirt straight, and iron the body part. 
Usually it is necessary to make a pleat from below the front to the bottom 
hem, but, while pressing this, see that the back and front of the shirt agree 
in width. 

Fig. 94 shows the next stage, when the fingers of the left hand are placed 
inside the neck band, and the side of the iron passed round its base to stand 




Fig. 94. 



it up in position. Fix the button-hole of the neck band together with a pin 
or a stud, and turn the shirt over so that the back is uppermost. Straighten 
the side seams nicely preparatory to folding. 



106 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Folding a Starched Shirt. 

Commence by turning over a small piece of each side from the seam, and 
spread the nearest sleeve straight across the back of the shirt, as in Fig. 95. 




Fig. 95. 



Turn the cuff down in the centre of the back and then sharply up again, so 
that it Hes on the neck band, but sHghtly projects, as in Fig. 96. 

Bring the other sleeve across the back, down in the centre as in Fig. 97, 
and up again. The second cuff now lies partly on the first one, with the openings 
of the cuffs towards each other. (Fig. 98.) It will be seen from Fig. 99 that 
by this means the stiff rounded folds of the cuffs are so placed that the yoke 



IRONING AND POLISHING SHIRTS, COLLARS, WAISTCOATS 107 

can be turned back over them, by bringing each side of the body part towards 
the centre as far as the stiff front will allow, to make a sharp line on each 
edge of it. 




Fig. 96. 



Then turn up just a few inches at the hem, sufficient to bring the front tail 
in sight as in Fig. 99, and fold the front over on to this. 




Fig. 97. 




Fra. 98. 



108 



LAUNDRY WORK 




Fig. 99. 

A well-folded shirt should show simply the stiffened front and collar band, 
a very small portion of yoke (Fig. 100, A), and the calico part at the sides of the 
bottom of the front. (Fig. 100, B and B'.) 




Fig. 100. 
Collars and Cuffs. 

These should be ironed in a similar manner to shirt fronts and cuffs. A 
flannel pad should be placed extra to the ironing felt on the table, and covered 
with a small clean cloth. Pin this tightly at each of its four corners, so that 
the pad may not get creased, and cause unsightly marks on the work. 

The shape of the collar must be taken into consideration before the 
ironing is commenced, button-holes must be kept closed and straight, and 
the iron used easily and smoothly to avoid creases round the edges. A fairly 
hot iron is required ; but, for persons unused to ironing collars, it is best to 
use a medium heat at first, and work up to a greater one. The iron must 
be pressed well into the linen. 

If only a light rubbing motion is used the collar will become hard and 
dry before it is smooth, and will therefore be much more difficult to pohsh. 



IRONING AND POLISHING SHIRTS, COLLARS, WAISTCOATS 109 

and, in fact, will not gloss nearly so well as it would were it well ironed before- 
hand. This rule holds good for all raw starched linen that requires glazing. 
When polishing see that the iron is used correctly. (C/. pages G5-7.) 

" Curling." 

For rounding off or " curling " single collars, run a ilat-iron lightly but 
firmly round the top edge on the wrong side. If the collar has points that 
are turned down, care must be taken that the linen is creased at the stitch 
marks, and that both points agree in size. In preparing double collars for 
curling, attention must be paid to turning them over correctly. Occasionally 
the top half is folded over a fraction too much, thereby causing a sharp hard 
crease at the top edge, which is exceedingly uncomfortable for the wearer. 




On the other hand, if a double collar is not turned over sufficiently, it will 
have a very bad shape, and the linen will crack through being strained at the 
wrong point. When curhng, the iron should not be flat on the double fold 
of the collar, as this tends to prevent the tie from running round inside easily. 
The point of the iron should be used on the top edge as in Fig. 101, as this 
helps to give the " spring " that is required. 

White Waistcoats. 

These are usually classed with shirts and collars, inasmuch as they 
require equal skill and care in laundering. Every little detail connected with 



110 



LAUNDRY WORK 



the ironing of waistcoats must be clean. It is surprising liow these articles 
catch up every particle of dirt or dust that comes their way. The best plan 
is to have a small piece of thin, clean cloth to throw over the waistcoat if it 
has to be left at any stage during the ironing. 




Fig. 102. 



Ironing. 

To commence, place one half-front right side up, as in Fig. 102. Carefully 
arrange the pockets in the correct position. If they are very thick they 
may be pulled out and ironed separately, but, as a rule, the marks of pockets 
show less if they are ironed while in the natural position. The iron used must 
be perfectly clean, and not very hot. Button-holes must be kept a good 
shape, creases should not be allowed to form along the stitched edges, and the 
mouths of the pockets must be kept quite straight. 



IRONING AND POLISHING SHIRTS, COLLARS, WAISTCOATS 111 

Care must be taken that the material is kept a good shape, and is not 
s;retched so that it bulges out in places in the wear. This is most hkely 
to occur across the chest part, where the waistcoat rests in a hne with the 
armpits. [See arrows in Fig. 102 between which stretching is to be avoided.) 
A little care just here in placing and shrinking the material will make all the 
difference in the result. 

Steam both halves of the front into shape in this way, well pressing to 
remove creases : here, again, if firm pressure is not used, the article will be 
dry before the crease marks are removed. Next iron the back and straps, and 




Fig. 103. 



carefully press the lining. It is best to place each front separately, as in 
Fig. 103. for this, so that the material of the fronts may not be disarranged. 
For finally finishing the fronts, procure a piece of muslin, or an old 
handkerchief, and place it over the edges, button-holes, etc., to prevent 
brown marks, which are apt to occur when re-ironing. 

Folding. 

The length of the waistcoat should never be folded, but the two under-arm 
seams should be placed together, so that the whole of the back lies sandwiched 
between the two fronts, as in Fig. 104. 

Evening Ties — Ironing. 

In some cases gentlemen's cravats are made of fairly thick material 
firmly stitched in the making, but very often they are of thin cambric simply 

8— (635) 



112 



LAUNDRY WORK 



hemmed at the ends, the sides being left with raw edges to be turned in when 
folding. In this case, great care must be taken with the ironing, or the tie 
will not fold evenly and flatly- 

To commence ironing, spread the article out flat on the table, and smooth 
the material so that the tie looks of uniform width from end to end. Then 




Fig. 104. 

gently ease the iron, which must be fairly cool, with a motion similar to that 
described for a shirt front, on page 103. If the tie looks at all crooked or stretched 
after it is ironed, it should be wetted out again and re-done, as it would thus 
not only be difficult to fold but be very troublesome for the wearer to tie. 

To Fold. 

Place the tie wrong side uppermost near the front of the table, so that 
this can be used as a guide to keep the folds of the article straight. Turn 




Va^nt tdae.. 



(bur £iijj&. 



B. 



Case Doiuti. 




Fig. 105. 



IRONING AND POLISHING SHIRTS, COLLARS. WAISTCOATS 113 

over nearly a third of the width of the tie, as in Fig. 105, A, make a very 
narrow turning on the opposite side, as at B, and press both of these 
quite flat. 

Care should be taken that the folds are not stretchea as they are being 
pressed, for even at this stage it is possible quite to disfigure the tie. When 
making the last fold, as at C, place the iron lightly on the folded end nearest 
the right hand, and gently ease it towards the worker. 

Throughout the whole process of ironing and folding the iron must be 
used lightly and carefully, and on no account be rubbed from end to end 
of the tie, or the latter will be quite unwearable, because, being cut on the 
direct cross of the material, it will stretch if carelessly handled. 



CHAPTER XIII 

WASHING AND DRYING FLANNELS, BLANKETS, 
SOCKS AND STOCKINGS 

In discussing the question of wasliing flannel and woollen goods, there are 
quite a number of important points to be considered. A well-washed flannel 
is much appreciated, and many people realise how much longer is the hfe of 
the garment when it is well washed ; not only does the garment last so much 
longer, but it is also much more comfortable to wear. 

Another side of the question is that in many cases the manufacturer 
is blamed for what is really caused by negligence, or ignorance, on the part 
of the person who does the washing. 

It is wise to commence with ordinary white and light-coloured flannel 
or woollen garments. Prepare a bath of water at a temperature of not more 
than 85° F., add to this sufficient boiled soap (see notes on page 16) to make 
a lather. For successful flannel-washing the water nmst show a good lather. 
The water is of no use, and will do more harm than good, if it has only a milky 
appearance. The rinsing water should be of the same temperature as that 
used for washing, but should have no soap added. 

If no thermometer is available, the hand can be used as a test. When 
it is put right down into the bath, there should be no sensation of tingling ; 
otherwise the water is too hot. If there are a number of flannels to be washed, 
two waters should be prepared, one for " firsting " and one for " seconding." 
" Firsting" is washing on the right side," seconding" should be done on the 
wrong side. Flannels should be right side out when put into the water. 

Commence with a light squeezing motion, relying upon the lather in the 
water, together with the gentle friction, to remove the dirt. As a broad 
rule, raw soap should not be rubbed on flannel or woollen garments, but, 
should the neck or wristbands be cxtremelv dirty, it may be resorted to. 

When the right side has been rubbed loosely and lightly all over, turn 
the garment and treat the wrong side in the same way. Friction applied 
with a fairly soft brush is not harmful to neck bands, etc., if they will not 
easily come clean. A quantity of garments should never be put into the 
water at one time. The washing of one should be completed, it should be rinsed, 
and hung to dry, before the next article is washed. Flannels should never 
be allowed to lie about after being washed, since they shrink, harden and 
darken in colour if not immediately hung to dry. 

In rinsing woollens, care must be taken to remove all the soap ; each article 
must be opened out, and lifted up and down in the water. It is not sufficient 

114 



WASHING AND DRYING FLANNELS, BLANKETS, ETC. 115 

just to dip them in and out again. When putting them through the wringer, 
attention must be paid to buttons, as not only may they get broken through 
carelessness, but the broken pieces are hable to make holes in the flannel, 
and cause injury to the wringer. This is most likely to happen with blouses, 
pyjama jackets, etc. 

If serge coats, or garments having very large buttons are being washed, 
it is best to remove the latter, as the garment can be wrung very much 
better without them, and, when the time comes for pressing up, this can be 
accomplished with greater ease. 

When the flannels have been wrung, they must be hung to dry as soon as 
possible, and should not be subjected to too great a heat. For absolutely 
perfect results an even temperature should be maintained throughout. Open- 
air drying is by far and away the best, pro\'ided there are not a quantity of 
chimneys to deposit their smuts. In this case indoor drying is preferable. 
Watchfulness must be exercised that the garments do not become harshly dry. 
A suspicion of dampness left in gives a much better result in the finishing. 

When the flannels are sufficientlv dry, fold them together evenly, so that 
they are ready for ironing. If they are just crumpled up anyhow, difficulty 
will be e.xperienced in moving the creases caused, and this will entail unnecessary 
labour. 

Stockings and Socks. 

When washing these articles, care must be taken that the water is clear, 
and free from lint. Many people are apt to use that which has had other 
woollen things washed in it, and thus cause the stockings to appear covered 
with small pieces of white lint. Prepare water as for flannels, and add 
sufficient boiled soap to make a lather. 

Stockings should be on the right side when put into the water, and should 
be well rubbed, without any raw soap being used. After the right side is 
cleansed, turn the stocking, and repeat the process on the wrong side. 

A little salt added to the rinse water helps to keep black stockings a nice 
clear tone. Each one must be well opened in this water, and then, when 
wrung, should be put through the wringer toe first. It is of the utmost 
importance that the tops of stockings or socks should not be put through 
the wringer first, or anv sediment remaining \vill collect in the toe. 

For drying, spread them out as flat as possible, and do not subject them 
to a great heat. Silk stockings should be wrung, rolled in a cloth instead of 
drjdng, and then ironed. 

Pressing. 

Stockings should be pressed from the wrong side with a fairly cool iron. 
The left hand, with the knuckles downwards, is put right into the foot, the 
heel being uppermost. The iron is placed on the toe, while the hand inside 



116 



LAUNDRY WORK 



is used to place the foot. It is slowly withdrawn, followed closely by the 
iron until the heel is reached. This being laid flat with the iron [see Fig. 106) 



C>iTection 




Hand, inside - (aalm "l^- 

Fig. 106. 

the fingers of the left hand are spread as wide as they will go inside the leg 
of the sock or stocking, and are gradually withdrawn as the iron approaches. 
In this way, the seam at the back of the leg can be kept quite straight, and 
the stocking will not only look shapely, but be comfortable to wear. They 
should always be hung to air before being put away. 

Blankets. 

The washing of blankets should be proceeded with as for flannels, but a few 
suggestions with regard to the drying may be helpful. x\s much of the mois- 
ture as possible should be wrung from them after rinsing. They must have 




two rinse waters, for, owing to the spongy nature of the material, it is some- 
what difficult to get rid of the soap. The best plan is to put them through 



WASHING AND DRYING FLANNELS, BLANKETS, ETC. 117 

the wringer folded evenly, as more water is squeezed out in this way and the 
material will not show a mass of creases. 

If a second person is available to help, it is best to shake each blanket 
open from the four corners after wringing. This raises the wool, thereby 
helping to secure a soft, fluffy feeling when the blanket is finished. When 
hanging the blanket to dry, fold it over the line with the borders to the sides. 
(See Fig. 107.) If folded with the borders hanging, as in Fig. 108, the moisture 
draining towards the bottom edges will encourage the colour, if at all " loose," 
to " bleed " into the white part below. If folded over with the borders to the 
sides, as in Fig. 107, each colour simply drains down its own stripe, without 
coming into contact with any white portion. 

When the blanket is half dry, turn it over so that the side that has been 
outside is folded in, still keeping the borders as before. When it is nearly 
dry, turn it round so that the borders hang down, and move it about several 
times thus until it is perfectly dry. 




If blankets are dried in this way, and shaken carefully each time they are 
moved, a very good result will follow. They should never be allowed to 
get " bone " dry while in the one position, for this not only imparts a very 
stiff feeling, but also, as a rule, the line leaves an ugly crease which cannot 
be shaken out. Blankets should be thoroughly aired before being finally 
folded. 



CHAPTER XIV 

IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 

However successfully flannels may have been washed, there is still an amount 
of skill and care required to obtain the result aimed at. It will be noticed 
that it has been suggested that flannels must have just a suspicion of damp- 
ness left in from the drying. Supposing that such is not the case, and that 
they have been allowed to get too dry for ironing, a little water (tepid) must 
be sprinkled on them, and each one rolled up quite neatly and put aside for 
some time before ironing. 

One of the chief points to study is the heat of the iron, for, if a flannel is 
once scorched, the injury can seldom be remedied. Therefore, it is perfectly 
obvious that the ironer must thoroughly understand the heat of her irons 
before attempting to deal with this class of work. Too much importance cannot 
be attached to this. 

Many fine flannels are greatly improved bv being ironed on the wrong side. 
Cream delaine, cashmere, and many light-coloured ones are very much better 
done in this way. 

Take the first two named : it is often most noticeable that these materials 
have an extremely yellowish tinge after being ironed. This can be avoided 
if the material is ironed on the wrong side, and not subjected to too great 
a heat under the iron. 

For all ordinary flannel underwear, a great deal can be accomplished to 
prevent shrinkage by means of the ironing and pressing. Woven under- 
wear should be laid perfectly flat on the table, and well pressed from the 
seams, care being taken that each garment is stretched both from side to side, 
and from top to bottom. 

After both sides of the garment are well pressed, it should be plainly folded, 
and hung to air. This is most essential with all classes of woollen garments, 
since if they were folded closely and packed away fresh from the iron, a great 
amount of shrinkage would occur. 

Flannel nightgowns can be folded in the same way as cotton ones. {See 
diagrams on pages 73-79.) 

Ironing Flannel Shirts. 

Flannel shirts can be proceeded with as follows : Fold the back in halves 
{see Fig. 109) and iron from the crease A to the seam B. Turn over, place 
the fold from the worker, and iron from the seam B to the fold A. (Fig. 1 10.) 
From this stage the front of the shirt should be kept facing the worker. 

118 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



119 



Next, place the yoke part on the back by putting the left hand inside the 
opening of the front, and gripping the top of the right sleeve from inside (see 




Edije o^ Taliie.. 



Fig. 109. 



direction of arrow in Fig. Ill), while holding the left sleeve on the outside, 
with the right hand at A. With the yoke in this position, iron it without 
pressing down the collar band. 

' Fold. 




Sear 



Ffo-nt Harvcjs ^/ oo^t lalle. / 




^d^e oj lallc. 



Fig. 110. 



120 



LAUNDRY WORK 




Fig. III. 



TaUe. 




Fig. 112. 



Edge oJiaTTc. 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



121 



Next iron the collar band, commencing wdth the wTong side, ha\ang placed 
it at right angles to the edge of the table, with the shirt to the left. Take care 
that the band falls into position in a natural curve, avoiding a straight line, 
from A to B in Fig. 112. Turn the band, and finish by pressing well on the 
wrong side. 

Next place the shirt with the front facing the ironer, so that one sleeve 
can be ironed on each side of the shirt. (Fig. 113.) 




Fig. 113. 



Begin with the left sleeve, which will be on the right of the worker. Place 
the cuff wrong side up, parallel to the edge of the table, taking care that 
creases do not gather round the edges of the stitching. Turn the cuff over, 
still keeping it in the same position on the table, and finish off on the right 
side, avoiding creases as before. 



122 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Bring the shirt nearer the edge of the table, and grip the seam of the left 
sleeve at the top, in the left thumb and finger (A, Fig. 114), and the opening 




7il?e. 



Fig. 114. 

just above the cuff (B) in the right hand, so as not to injure the already ironed 
cuff. Place the seam parallel to the edge of the table, and iron straight 
across from seam to fold. Turn the sleeve over, altering the position of the 
shirt as httle as possible, and iron from the fold A to the seam B. (Fig. 115.) 









— — n 


. 


-- J / 


Fo?c/ A. -7 ^ 




;' Pd^c oj: Tahlc . 





Fig. U.S. 



Flannel shirts are best not pleated ; but unstarched cotton shirts invariably 
require a pleat or pleats in the sleeve near the fold, which should be put in 
at this stage. (Fig. 1 15, C.) The second sleeve should be ironed similarly, 
but on the other side of the body of the shirt. 

Lay the shirt with the front uppermost and collar band to the left hand, 
and iron all parts of the front, taking care to press the box pleat well as 
this gives a nice " finish " to the garment. Turn back the front tail of the shirt 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



123 



as far as it will go, and pleat in the back from yoke to bottom hem, by placing 
the left hand inside the opening at the neck, throwing the fronts lightly back 
to avoid creasing. (Fig. 116.) 




Fig. 116. 



Pleats should be put in according to fullness. Where, in the making of 
the shirt, pleats were set into the yoke, they should be followed as nearly 
as possible, and will be sufficient ; but where gathers occur two or three pleats 
will be needed. They must be well pressed into position by passing the iron 
up under the front of shirt, from hem to yoke. 

The garment must now be replaced flat, and the bo.x pleat be re-pressed, 
and where necessary, a pleat continued from its lower edge to the front hem. 



124 



LAUNDRY WORK 



To Fold the Shirt. 

Place the two side seams together at the edge of the table, with the sleeves 
hanging over together, and collar to the left-hand side. (Fig. 117.) Take 




Fig. 117. 



the top yoke in the left hand, and insert the fingers of the right hand between 
the top and the underneath half of the tail [see Fig. 118) so that the 
top portion can be drawn over as in Fig. 119, taking care that the box pleat 
IS m the centre. 




Fig. lis. 



Lightly press to keep in position, and turn over. Smooth if necessary on 
this side, and see that the sleeves are not crumpled. 

This simple method of folding is quite good for flannel shirts on account 
of the airing. If hung to air with sleeves hanging, as in Fig. 120, all thick 
parts will receive an equal share of the heat. 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



125 




Fig. 119. 



When ready to be folded for packing away, place again as in Fig. 119, 
but with the pont on the table. 




Fig. 120. 



126 



LAUNDRY WORK 



Take the cuffs of both sleeves together in the right hand, and place the left 
hand flat on the armhole of shirt, as at arrow, Fig. 121. 

Bring the sleeves over towards the worker, on to the left hand, which can 
then be withdrawn, leaving the sleeve as in Fig. 122. 

Next fold the sleeves back again until they are in the position indicated 
in Fig. 123. 




Ed^e o^ Title. 
Fig. 121. 



Bring the cuffs down so that they run parallel to the bottom of the 
garment, as in Fig. 124. 

Next, turn up a few inches of both hems of the tails of the shirt, as 
shown in that figure. 

Finally, bring the neck band over on to this, so that a nice portion of 
front is showing. (Fig. 125.1 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 127 




Fig. 122. 




Fig. 123. 



9— (635) 



128 



LAUNDRY WORK 




Fig. 124. 



It is a bad plan to leave too much of the pressing up to be done when 
folding ; the garment should be thoroughly ironed beforehand, and will then 
require very little attention when being folded up. 




Fig. 125. 



Ironing Flannel Trousers. 

To obtain successful results with these articles, certain rules must be 
carefully observed. The trousers must be of sufficient dampness before the 
ironing is commenced. It is important not to attempt this if they are harsh 
and dry. 

In the first place, they should be kept on the wrong side. With a fairly 
cool, perfectly clean iron, press all round the inside of top. (See Fig. 126.) 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



129 



Next press all thick parts, straps where buckles go, etc., and then place the 
trousers straight on the table, and press well on the wrong side from seam to 
seam with the front uppermost. (Fig. 127.) When ironing the second leg, 
ease the work towards the front edge of the table without otherwise altering 
its position. 



/I Li<^s 




\^ FcLcina wsfdc lof>. 



fdge oj Talfit. 



Fig. 126. 



Turn the trousers over so that the back part can be ironed in a similar 
manner, still keeping the top of trousers to the left hand. First smooth the 
material away from the hip seam, and iron as far as the shape of the seam 
will easily permit. (Fig. 128, A.) Bring the material away from the inside leg 
seam over the hip seam, and finish ironing up to the seat. (Fig. 128, B.) The 
back part of both legs should be ironed in this way. 

After they are perfectly well pressed all over on the wrong side, turn on 
to the right side, and place the legs together as in Fig. 129. The four seams 
should occur in the centre between the two folds at the foot. Procure a 
piece of thin, clean material, and iron each leg separately under this. Pres- 
sing of this description should not be done without a cloth, or the face of the 
iron makes glossy marks. It will be noticed that the inside seam tends more 
towards the seat than the front of the trousers. (Fig. 129.) Both sides of 
each leg should be pressed while the seams are in this position, the top part 
being to the left hand. 



130 



LAUNDRY WORK 




Fig. 127. 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



131 




Fig. 128, 



The crease, which will appear on the front of the leg when the garment 
is in wear, should extend about half-way up the entire length from the foot 
(Fig. 130), and must be well pressed in at this stage. Above this level the 
creases at the seat and front should not be well defined. 




Fig. 129. 



132 



LAUNDRY WORK 




IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



133 



Should the wearer desire what is known as a " permanent turn up " at the 
hems, this is better done in the ironing, and the amount depends on the taste 
of the wearer. (Fig. 13L) 

If it seems difficuh to get the material smooth, the cloth for finishing may 
be a trifle damp, but not quite wet. 




Fig. 131. 



Ironing a Flannel Coat. 

Practically the same rules need to be followed for flannel coats and 
waistcoats. Lay the front of the coat near the edge of the table, with the 
collar to the left hand, and the wrong side uppermost. (Fig. 132.) The 
sleeves must be turned on to the right side, to enable the worker to shape 
the shoulders. In steaming the lining of the coat, care must be taken that 
the right side of the material, and the pocket flaps, if any, are free from creases, 
as they would be very difficult to remove later. 

Proceed across the back and the left side of the front similarly, drawing 
each portion towards the edge of the table. It may be found expedient to 
turn the left front of the coat round to the edge of the table when shaping 
the shoulders. 

The sleeves should now be turned through, so that the right side of the coat 
can easily be ironed. A clean pressing cloth should be interposed between 
the right side of the material and the face of the iron. Care must be taken 
that the material is " put into shape," and also kept creaseless. The flaps of 
the pockets should be ironed separately at a following stage, and the hand- 
opening (Fig. 133, A to B) underneath the flap, must be kept high up in its 
correct position, so that the mouth of the pocket may not gape, as at C. 




fdge o^ Talle. 
Fig. 133. 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



135 



The shoulders and collar may be left until the bottom of the garment is 
finished right across. In ironing the back, draw the sleeves out under each 
front. It may be seen from Fig. 134 that it is wise not to attempt to iron 



Liai ng. 




Fig. 134, 



too high up towards the collar at A and B. Wherever it is possible to turn 
back portions of the garment, it is advisable, since it is then possible to press 
each part singly. For example, see tail flap, x, Fig. 134. 



136 



LAUNDRY WORK 




1?t Side of 

Left Fronl^ 




f^je oj: 7a I it. 



Fig. 135. 



The coat should now be brought with the collar placed as in Fig. 135, so 
that the shoulder can be most carefully moulded into shape. The ironer 
must not attempt the whole of the shoulder at once, or the coat will have 




TaUc 



Slceuc Kangs on W/g Side. 



Lt Ft 
Hanq itxq 



Fig. 136. 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



137 



a " biilged " appearance. Four positions are necessary to obtain a satis- 
factory result, both fronts being spread, as in Fig. 135, and the sections round 
each shoulder seam, as in Fig. 136. 

Coat 



ioat 




Fig. 137. 



The collar itself should be ironed in two portions, on both right and wrong 
sides, and care taken that the material is in no way stretched, especially at the 




Fig. 138. 



138 



LAUNDRY WORK 



centre back, else when in wear the fall of the collar will stand off from the 
back of the neck of the wearer. 

The sleeve linings should be very lightly steamed, and this is best done on 
a sleeve board. After turning them on to the right side, each should be placed 
as in Fig. 137. The underparts of the sleeves can be ironed flat on the table ; 
but without making creases at A and B, down either side of the folds. 




Fig. 139. 



A sleeve board must be used for the tops, and, when turning the already 
pressed coat about and inserting the board, great care must be exercised lest 
the coat become creased. The sleeve board should be placed with the tapered 
end to the worker's right hand (Fig. 138), and the top part of sleeve slipped on 
to this end. 




KiG. 140. 



Commence ironing from the inner seam, making the iron follow the direc- 
tion of the grain of the material. (Fig. 139.) This is extremely necessary, 
or the sleeve may be dragged out of shape,- and have a very unsightly 
appearance when on the arm. 



IRONING AND FINISHING FLANNELS 



139 




EcLjt of lailc. 



Fig. 141. 



It is hardly necessary again to draw attention to the importance of pressing 
the right side of the material under a cloth. In finishing the lower part of 
the sleeve, the cuffs must be carefully placed and pressed. After it has been 




Fig. 142, 



140 



LAUNDRY WORK. 



done on a sleeve board, it can be placed near the edge of the table, and the 
point of the iron inserted inside the cuff, which possibly can be unbuttoned, 
and the iron passed round the whole of the inside edge ; care being taken that 
the buttons are not broken. (Fig. 140.) 

When all the other parts of the coat are finished, attention must be paid 
to the folding over and creasing of the collar and lapels, which must not be 
pressed until the ironer is perfectly sure that the crease will be in the correct 
position. After the collar is carefully pressed on the right side, first as in 
Fig. 141, and then as in Fig. 142, the coat should be turned as in Fig. 143, 
and the shoulders carefully re-pressed from the inside as shown by the arrow. 
Any finishing touches the coat may require should now be done from the wrong 
side. The coat should be placed on a " hanger " for airing, but on no account 
must it be folded. 



Vest. 




5dge oj" TaUt. 
Fig. 143. 



CHAPTER XV 

WASHING AND DRYING COLOURED GARMENTS AND 
ARTICLES 

Although a great number of different articles may be included under this 
heading, the principles for washing and finishing them are all very similar. 

Dresses and Blouses. 

In the first place, coloured cotton blouses, dresses, overalls, etc., may be 
either of various " heavy " colours, such as deep blue, brown, green, etc., 
or of lighter and more delicate shades ; the latter being, as a rule, less likely 
to give trouble in washing. 

A dress is seldom made up of material only. As a rule there is trimming 
of some description which is often of another colour, and possibly of a different 
texture from the dress itself. It will readily be understood that this makes 
the process of washing more difficult. One can always anticipate a good 
result with a self-coloured garment, but directly two, or possibly more colours 
have to be considered together, the difficulties commence. 

It will be useful to consider an instance of a dress made of Saxe blue cash- 
mere, trimmed with a quantity of black silk embroidery and braid. This 
had become extremely muddy, as the result of a street accident. Obviously, 
the first step was to attack the mud without injuring the material. 

A bath of very soapy lukewarm water was prepared, at about the tem- 
perature of 70° F., and into this the muddy parts of the dress were immersed 
{sec page 18) and very carefully rubbed with a light, loose motion, until 
practically all the mud had disappeared. 

Meanwhile, a second bath of water was being prepared, of about the same 
temperature, and very soapy. In this the whole dress was washed, but no 
raw soap was rubbed on it, although special attention was paid to the parts 
that were made especially dirty in wear, e.g., hem of skirt, edges of wristbands, 
collar, etc. This was done as rapidly as was consistent with a good result, 
in order that the dress should remain in the water as short a time as possible. 

It was rinsed in a bath of lukewarm water, to which a large handful of salt 
had been added with a view to toning up the black embroidery. Another 
rinse followed in water containing a small quantity of acetic acid, which 
served to brighten up the blue colour. 

After careful wringing, the dress was laid in a cloth and folded with a 
second cloth between the folds of material, so that no one part touched another. 
Had the black embroidery rested upon the blue fabric, the latter might have 
been stained. 

141 



142 LAUNDRY WORK 

After these precautions were taken, the dress was tightly rolled up, and 
allowed to remain for a short time, so that the rolling cloths might absorb some 
of the moisture. 

Later it was ironed, but only on the wrong side, and a perfectly successful 
result was obtained, the blue material being of a nice bright colour, and the 
black embroidery quite glossy and distinct. 

Take another instance of a black and white check dress, trimmed with 
black bands. As a rule these black trimmings are the parts that cause trouble. 
In this case, bejore it was washed, the dress was steeped in lukewarm water, 
to which a large handful of salt had been added. It was left here for only 
a few minutes, while the washing water — still of the same cool temperature — 
was being prepared. 

The dress was then wrung from the steeping water, and washed carefully 
and quickly. The fact that it was of a cotton material enabled a brush 
to be used on the badly soiled parts for the sake of speed. The use of raw 
soap on the black trimmings was strictly avoided, or they would have had a 
streaky appearance when finished. It was rinsed in a strong solution of salt, 
and was rolled in cloths as before. Ironing followed shortly. 

Another instance in the form of a dark blue overall with white bands may 
be useful, this being a type of garment very frequently met with. We will 
assume that there are some greasy marks on the front of this article ; therefore 
the water will need to be somewhat hotter. An ordinary temperature — say 
about 85° F. — will not cause any damage here, so prepare as for flannels. 
[See page 114.) This method of washing is practically the same, but a little 
extra friction may be needed, because such articles are often a little dirtier 
than the average coloured work. 

A rinse water should have been prepared, to which has been added 
sufficient acetic acid to make the water smell fairly strong. Immerse the 
article in this, well rinse, and wring tightly. 

Overalls are usually starched, and coloured articles requiring this must 
be put into thoroughly clear starch. By this is meant that the liquid must 
be entirely free from lumps, and the skin which has formed on the top in 
cooling must be removed, or it will settle, and show on the material when 
it is ironed. 

It is therefore obvious that the starch must be ready before the washing 
is commenced, so that the overall can be washed, rinsed, and starched as a 
continuous process. It must be hung to dry immediately, and so arranged 
that the blue part has not a chance to " run " into the white trimmings. 
Outdoor drying is very good for this sort of thing, providing the sun is not 
powerful enough to fade the colours. 

If an article of this description is found to " bleed " very much in the wash, 
wring after starching, roll in a cloth, as for the previous articles, and iron 
as soon as possible. 



WASHING AND DRYING COLOURED GARMENTS 143 

The present fashion in dresses involves many buttons, which may have a 
certain amount of metal in their composition ; these will be found extremely 
troublesome unless the garment is finished off speedily to prevent their causing 
rust marks on the material. 

Chintz Covers and Coloured Bed-spreads. 

In considering these articles, there are again many different combinations 
of colours to deal with. Cretonne of average quality washes well as a rule, 
very little trouble being experienced if reasonable care is taken ; but there 
are kinds where the colours are so " loose " that immediately they are put into 
the water they commence to " run." Therefore it is necessary to treat all 
with a certain amount of precaution, in case this should be so. 

For loose covers, the above directions will be quite useful in many cases. 
The edges of chair-seats, and similar parts are usually found to be particularly 
dirty ; these, therefore, will require special attention. If the colours are fairly 
loose, soap and a brush must be used judiciously ; but carried to e.xcess this 
process will tend to move the colours, and make the article look " patchy." 

When rinsing chintz covers, a strong solution of salt will be found useful 
for the darker, heavier colours. For the medium shades ordinary vinegar is 
quite good, about two tablespoonfuls to a gallon of water being used. 

As a rule these covers are preferred stiff; therefore the starch must be 
fairly thick, and should be used before it has been allowed to get cold, as 
this will make the article iron more smoothly. Such articles should be wrung 
well, and should be hung to dry as " open " as possible. They should not be 
allowed to hang in one position very long, and a few minutes spent in turning 
them about materially assists in producing a good result. 

Curtains and Hangings. 

These will form another large variety. Take as an example cream or light 
coloured casement cloth, with borders of some deeper colour, or possibly of 
mixed colours. These articles are usuallv very dusty, and m ust be immersed for 
a short time in cold water to loosen the dust before washing. A heaped handful 
of salt should be added to each bath of cold water used, and fairly cool washing 
water prepared while this soaking is proceeding. 

The tops and edges of curtains will require special attention, soap may 
be rubbed on the cream parts, and this will help to remove some of the 
brownish marks caused by atmospheric impurities. All curtains should be 
washed in two soapy waters to clear them. 

In rinsing, salt must again be added to the water to " set " the colours. 
After wringing, the starch need only be of medium thickness, curtains hanging 
much more gracefully if not too stiff. It is important when drying to see 
that the coloured borders are spread out, sr that they do not take a long 
time to dry, nor stain the light part. 

10— (635) 



144 LAUNDRY WORK 

Coloured bed-spreads may be treated in a manner similar to the above, 
and should also receive very little starch ; in fact some people prefer them 
without any. An example of treatment that was given to a coloured 
bed-spread may be useful here. 

The article in question was made of a shade of light blue casement cloth, 
which often fades in the wash, therefore had to be extremely carefully treated. 
The material with which this was bordered was Paisley-patterned sateen, 
into which several colours were introduced, pink and light-green predominating, 
and this border was stitched on with pink thread. As a rule these 
Paisley materials wash very well, in some cases the green having the greater 
tendency to " run," in others the pink colour causing the trouble. 

Embroidery threads, and fancy cottons which have the appearance of a 
mixture of silk and cotton, should be treated with caution. In commencing 
to wash this particular bed-spread, the usual cool soapy water was prepared, 
and at the same time the rinse water also. The article was washed, no soap 
whatever being rubbed on, on account of the delicate colours. 

After careful squeezing and rubbing, it was rinsed in the water prepared, 
to which had been added sufficient acetic acid to make it smell strong. 
Passing through this quickly, it was put into a very weak solution of boiled 
starch, and wrung carefully. It was then spread out perfectly open, and 
allowed to get about half dry, and then ironed on the wrong side, the result 
being pronounced " almost as good as new." 



CHAPTER XVI 

IRONING OF COLOURED GARMENTS AND ARTICLES 

Two of the most important points in the ironing of coloured garments are, 
first, to decide whether the article should be ironed on the right or the wrong 
side, and second, to study the heat of the iron that is used for finishing. In 
the first place, to iron a garment on the wrong side is often quite as easy, and 
in many cases, easier than doing it on the right side ; but the result may be 
totally different. 

For example, take dark and heavy coloured linens and cottons. If these 
materials are ironed on the right side, light streaky marks are apt to show, 
there is an unpleasant appearance of gloss, and altogether a " cheap " effect 
results. If these same materials are ironed on the wTong side, in many 
instances it will be almost impossible to decide whether they have been washed 
or not. In the second place, many shades of colour are what is termed 
" fugitive " and are only temporarily affected by too great a heat ; but others 
are completely spoiled by too hot an iron being impatiently used. Speed in 
this respect is rather a costly venture. 




Fig. 144. 



At first sight, it may appear that ironing a dress or blouse on the wrong 
side is difficult, but a few directions will alter this view. If a dress is without 
lining, no extra trouble need be experienced. (See directions for ironing a 
simple muslin dress on page 100.) Consider a dress with lining in both bodice 

145 



146 



LAUNDRY WORK 



and skirt. As a rule the bodice lining will be attached fairly closely to the 
material, the skirt lining being more often arranged as a loose foundation. 
To commence ironing, lay the dress, wrong side up, with the waistband 
to the edge of the table, so that the bodice hangs over (see Fig. 144), taking 
care that the edges of the cuffs do not rest on the floor. Well iron this band, 
then turn the dress round, so that the bodice is nearest the left hand of the 
ironer, with the sleeves turned on to the right side, as in Fig. 145. By this 




Fig. 145. 



means the wrong side of the bodice can be ironed quite easily. If it is fastened 
at the back, commence ironing from the button or eye side of opening; if the 
fastenings are in the front, the button-hole or hook side will be nearest to hand 
for ironing on the wrong side. 

Proceed across the bodice, always ironing the portion nearest to hand, 
and drawing the finished piece towards the worker. The shoulders must be 
carefully shaped : this is best accomplished by bringing the shoulder part 
quite near the edge of the table. (See notes for muslin blouse, pages 97, 98.) 
If the material of the bodice is full underneath the lining as it lies on the table, 
it must be moved aside as the ironing is proceeded with, a little practice 
soon making this quite easy. Being double, all the parts will require extra 
pressure to give them an even appearance when finished. 

After the bodice has been nicely dried, turn the sleeves on to the wrong 
side, and iron carefully. (See notes on pages 98, 99.) If the wrist part of sleeve 
is set into a cuff, carefully shape and dry this band first ; then put the bottom 
part of the sleeve on to the tapered end of the sleeve board, with the gathers 
nearest to the left hand. This is a rule that should be closely observed ; the 



IRONING OF COLOURED GARMENTS AND ARTICLES 147 

gathered part of any article should be nearest the left hand of the ironer, 
so that when the full part is being dealt with, the point of the iron is working 
up towards the left hand. About one-half of the length of the sleeve can be 
ironed in this way. 

After going round the lower portion of the sleeve, remove it from the 
board, keep the latter in the same position, place the top part of the sleeve on, 
and iron carefully into the fullness, commencing from the under-arm seam, 
and taking care to draw each finished portion toward the ironer. In most 
cases, the sleeve of a blouse or dress has to be ironed in two portions : there- 
fore care must be taken that a mark does not show at the junction of the 
bottom and top portions. 

If the sleeves have no wristbands, and are in the stvle of an ordinary 
coat sleeve, take the under-arm seam in the fingers of both hands, and place 
it quite evenly on the table, with the underneath of the sleeve uppermost. 
Iron this under portion nicely, but not so dry that under and top parts of the 
sleeve are stuck very tightly together. Separate the two thicknesses of 
material from each other by putting the hand into the sleeve from the top, 
turn over, and iron the lower part on the other side, still not ironing quite dry. 
Next place the top of the sleeve on the tapered end of the sleeve board, and 
press well into the gathers. 

Before removing the sleeve from the board, attend to any creases that may 
have been caused by ironing the bottom portion of the sleeve double. Leave 
both the sleeves on the wrong side until the skirt is finished. 

If the skirt has a lining attached to the material, the ironing is quite simple, 
for it will be placed on the skirt board wrong side uppermost, extra pressure 
being applied owing to the double thickness of material. If the skirt has a 
loose " foundation " with a flounce, the latter should be ironed before putting 
the skirt on to the board. If the flounce needs pleating, leave this for the present. 

Next place the material part of the skirt only on to the skirt board. This 
can be managed by drawing the lining through, so that it hangs off the end 
of the board with the bodice. The wrong side of the skirt should be well 
pressed, special attention being paid to seams, hems, and whatever fancy work 
there may be, the worker always remembering to draw the finished width of 
material towards her. A margin of material that has been ironed should be 
left at the front edge of the board, and the next section commenced on this 
ironed piece again, so that there are no unsightly marks finally to indicate 
commencement and finishing. 

After the material skirt is ironed, draw the dress carefully off the board 
by taking hold of, and slightly raising, the tapered end with the left hand, 
while drawing the dress with the right hand on to the left arm. When the 
bottom edge of the skirt is just off the board, put the right hand underneath 
the latter, at about the centre, and lower it back on to its stand or trestle. 
Now bring the skirt on to the right side, by carefully turning it over the bodice. 



148 LAUNDRY WORK 

If the skirt lining has been pulled through correctly, it wall now be found 
that the dress is in the position in which it is worn. 

It will again require to be put on the skirt board, which should be done 
in the following manner. Put the left hand through the placket opening 
of the skirt, so that a good portion of it is resting on the left arm. Raise the 
tapered end of the board with the left hand, and it will be found that the 
dress can be slipped on quite easily and without crumpling. 

To iron the underskirt, carefully fold the overskirt back on to the bodice, 
and iron as before, the only difference being that the underskirt is ironed 
on the right side, which is of no consequence. If it has a frill, this may require 
pleating, which should now be done, thus completely finishing the lining. 

Now draw the top skirt back into its correct position, and give what pressing 
up is required. If the material does not permit of an iron touching the right 
side, procure a piece of thin clean cloth, and press up any " broken " parts 
with this intervening. A very cool iron, lightly applied on the right side, 
seldom injures any ordinary coloured cotton material in the finishing ; but 
if the dress happens to be of woollen texture, a cloth tnust be used. 

The skirt being now quite finished, draw the dress off the board, following 
previous directions, and lay the bodice to the left hand, still keeping the 
sleeves on the wrong side ; thus making it easy to get at the right side of the 
bodice. If there is any fullness to dispose of, pleats of a uniform size must be 
neatly put in, the cloth being again applied if necessary. The collar-band 
must next be nicely pressed up, and the sleeves turned carefully on to the 
right side. To minimise crumpling in turning them, put the hand well down, 
then draw through smartly and " top up " the sleeve carefully, i.e., remove all 
unsightly marks or " breaks " caused by turning. If the bodice has any frills 
that require goffering or pleating, they should form the final stage of the work. 

Children's frocks that have underskirts attached should be ironed in the 
same order. 

Cretonne Covers. 

There are many of these covers which also " pay " well for ironing on the 
wrong side, notably thick coarse materials that show the grain fairly pro- 
minently. Those of somewhat finer texture, with a smooth surface, are more 
suitable for ironing on the right side, and in many cases are preferred glazed. 

The styles and shapes of chair and sofa covers are so numerous that it 
would hardly be possible to explain the exact method of ironing. As a broad 
rule, it is best to iron all small parts and corners first, including all the portions 
that are most difficult to " get at," next, flounces, if any are round the edge, 
and lastly, all large areas. 

Coloured Cushion Covers. 

In some cases it is somewhat difficult to iron these really well, on account 
of the opening being small ; and, on the other hand, it may be quite essential 



IRONING OF COLOURED GARMENTS AND ARTICLES 149 

to do the pressing from the wrong side, especially if there be any embroidery. 
Take as an example a frilled cover that has coloured embroidery, with the 
opening only half the length of one side of the square. 

To commence, well iron the openings, which are usually double and 
therefore will require well drying. Keep the cushion cover right side out, 
place a piece of calico about the size of the square inside the cover, lay a 
flannel pad on the table, and the embroidery face downwards on to this. 
Well iron the plain side, pressing firmly because of the extra thickness of 
material. It will be found that the cahco has received any colour that may 
have pressed through, and thus saved damage to the plain square. 

When the cover is nearly dry, carefully iron the frill, on both sides if it 
is double, then " top up " both sides of the cover, being careful not to touch the 
embroidery on the right side. This can be managed by going round each of 
the four sides quite on the edge of the table. 

If the opening is fairly large, an iron can be got inside quite easily. To 
do this, have the opening at the edge of the table, lay the cushion cover face 
downwards, raise the plain side, and press by putting the iron inside the 
opening. 

Great care must be taken in this class of work with regard to the heat of 
the iron, for if it is too hot it may cause silk or coloured cotton embroidery 
to " run " quite as much as careless washing would. Damage may also be 
caused to the colours by the slightest dampness left in from ironing ; therefore 
the cover must be thoroughly aired, but without folding. It is found, however, 
that if bright colours are subject to a fierce heat in airing, they have a harsh 
appearance, and are lacking in gloss. 



CHAPTER XVII 

WASHING AND IRONING OF SILKS, SATINS, CHIFFONS, ETC., 
AND THE TREATMENT OF REAL LACE AND GLOVES 

Although this is not a very large suljject to deal with, it is certainly an 
extremely important one. Some people have the idea that many kinds of silk 
and satin will not wash successfully. This is incorrect, but on the other hand, 
it is far better in the long run to go to the expense of having a silk garment 
dry-cleaned than to wash that garment at random, irrespective of make 
and texture. 

We are all familiar with the well-known white or cream " Jap silk." Given 
a certain amount of care, this can be made to look exceedingly well, even after 
having been washed several times. The chief care in washing this silk is 
in regard to the temperature of the water, which should always be cool rather 
than hot. Because soap must not be rubbed on this silk, the water must be 
made up carefully with sufficient boiled soap added to make a lather, and the 
article very carefully rubbed in this. Of course a brush must never be used. 
If the water is too hot, or if " raw " soap is allowed to come into contact with 
the material, it will become yellowish, and retain this tint. 

The rinsing water should be lukewarm and clear. It is best to wring by 
the hands from the water, as the wringer is apt to press the fastenings into 
the garment and cause much damage, owing to the thinness of the material. 
Some authorities advocate putting meth>-lated spirit into the rinse water for 
white washing-silk, to make it look glossy, but on- finds that it has a tendency 
to darken the silk under the iron. 

The gloss on white silk chiefly depends on the correct temperature of the 
water and the quality and kind of soap used, and, lastly, on the action of the iron 
in finishing. One nice soapy washing water of not more than 75° F., and one 
clear rinse water are all that is necessary. The articles should neither be soaked 
in the water for any length of time, nor be allowed to lie about between washing 
and rinsing, or rinsing and ironing. As soon as they are taken from the water, 
they should be rolled up in a clean cloth and ironed. 

With delicate shades of silk, colour as well as texture must be taken 
into consideration, and it is of no use to attempt this type of work unless it 
can be done as a quite continuous process. The rinse must immediately 
follow the wash, and the ironing must immediately follow the rinse. A clean 
dry cloth will always absorb in a few minutes all the moisture that should 
be got rid of. 

Water should be prepared as above for washing delicate shades of silk, 
satin, crepe dc Chine, etc., the rinse water having sufficient acetic acid added 

150 



WASHING AND IRONING OF SILKS, SATINS, ETC. 151 

to make it smell fairly strong. Always prepare both waters at the same 
time, and also procure the drying cloth in which the article is going to be rolled. 
If there are ironers to receive the work, see that some one gets the article as 
soon as possible after rinsing; but if it is being done by one person throughout, 
she should not commence washing unless there is time to finish it completely. 
With these thin soft silks the rubbing in of water must be very lightly done, or 
the material will appear to be frayed, strained, and "rowy," or full of rows 
of lines. 

Ninon and Chiffon. 

These can be quite successfully washed, if the water is quite cool and 
extremely soapy, and tlie articles are simply put under the water and carefully 
moved about without any friction being used. The whole garment must be kept 
together, so that the weight of one part does not drag against another. 

These materials must on no account be wrung. The best plan is to have 
a clean cloth ready, upon which the chiffon article is lifted out of the rinse 
water, and which receives the superfluous moisture. It must then be rolled 
in another dry cloth, as chiffon should not be ironed until about half dry, or 
it will appear stiff and sticky-looking. In fact, if ironed quite wet, it will, 
in many cases, fray out, and look quite old. 

Shantung and Tussore Silks. 

This class of silk is somewhat troublesome, and in most cases it is extremely 
difficult to obtain a really good result. In washing this fabric it wll be found 
that it always alters a little in shade ; therefore, when contemplating washing 
an article of this description, it is necessary to ascertain that it is not going 
to be worn with something of the same class that has not been previously 
washed. 

Take, for instance, a coat and skirt of this material — one of these may get 
soiled more quickly than the other, and the wearer is tempted to have one 
washed, and make the other " last a little longer." However, it is almost 
impossible to prevent coloured Tussore or Shantung silk from changing a little 
in shade when it is washed. 

They should be treated as ordinary silks in washing, a strong salt solution 
being very useful when rinsing grey and brown colours. After rinsing they 
must be rolled in a cloth, and the air must be prevented from getting to the silk 
until the finishing process is commenced. 

Another method of finishing Shantung silk, which is found quite successful, 
is to absorb a fair amount of the moisture from the rinsing in a cloth, and 
then to smooth the article into shape with the hands, hang to dry, so that the 
air can get to all parts of the garment at once, and when dry, finish off by 
pressing well with an iron of moderate heat, without using any moisture. 

It will be found, if a " damper " is used to Shantung silk, that even if 



152 LAUNDRY WORK 

one of these two processes of finishing lias been used, unsightly " water 
marks " will show on the surface of the silk. It should also be ironed on the 
wrong side so that the seams may be moved aside, and not be pressed 
through to the right side, as it will be noticed that wherever double thicknesses 
of the material are ironed together, dark marks show that cannot be removed 
until the article is again wetted. 

It has previously been suggested that the make of the garment should 
be taken into consideration as well as the texture. A further word of explana- 
tion may be useful here. It would be quite foolish for an amateur to attempt 
to wash a silk or satin blouse which is lined and freely trimmed, or a silk 
coat, however nicely the material would wash, if it is stiffened with canvas. 
These articles require the knowledge not only of how to wash and iron the 
various fabrics of which they are composed, but also of all the little details 
of finishing, that can only be gained by practical experience, and on which the 
whole success of preparing such articles depends. 

Finishing. 

To carry this through successfully, there are certain broad rules which, jf 
followed, will greatly assist the result. To commence with, the articles must be 
of even dampness all over ; therefore they should not be dried, but rolled in 
a cloth from the rinsing. Secondly, the irons must be clean and smooth, 
and of medium heat. To attempt to iron a silk garment with a rough, hot 
iron is absolutely against all laws of common sense. 

Again, in ironing, the fabric must not be nibbed with the iron ; a firm even 
pressure should be used, and the iron passed over the work as few times as 
possible. With care, delicate silks can be ironed so that they look as if they 
had never been washed at all, and, on the other hand, a careless worker may 
so " worry " them that they will look " flabby," and positively worn out. 

It is well to form the habit of ironing all silks on the wrong side, although 
there is really no difference in the finish, but if there is the shghtest tendency 
for the iron to brown the fabric, it does not then show on the outside surface 
of the garment. 

Fine WooKen Delaines. 

Delaine is a material that can be very successfully washed if treated with 
proper care. Both washing and ironing should be proceeded with as for 
light coloured silks. Many articles that might appear Uke new are spoilt 
because of their being dried before ironing. After bemg hung to dry, the white 
and cream ones have a harsh, thin appearance and the coloured ones a faded 
look, and in many instances, where the colours have the slightest tendency to 
" run," the pattern becomes indistinct and muddled. Delaines, whether white 
or coloured, should be rolled in a cloth, and ironed on the wrong side. There 
are many fine flannel and woollen materials which are used for blouses that 



WASHING AND IRONING OF SILKS, SATINS, ETC. 153 

may be treated in this way with excellent results, and with less trouble than 
if drying had been resorted to. 

Cleaning and Finishing of Lace. 

Many people possess really nice pieces of good, and in many instances 
valuable, lace, which occasionally require freshening, although the ordinary 
methods of washing and ironing would be too drastic for such delicate fabrics. 
In some cases the directions for washing chiffon will be found quite suitable, 
special care being taken that no wringing occurs. 

If the lace is very old and frail, procure a piece of old, well-washed flannel, 
and lightly tack the lace to this. It need not necessarily be single, as the very 
action of the cool soapy water flowing through the lace and flannel takes the 
dirt with it. The lace should not be removed until the finishing can be 
commenced. 

Another method of preserving the threads of frail lace is to wrap it care- 
fully round a clean bottle or a thick smooth round stick, to fix hghtly the outer 
end with a thread of cotton, and carefully move this about in the water while 
holding the end of the stick or bottle, the merest shade of stiffening, if any, 
must be used after rinsing. 

If boiled starch is the only stiffening agent available, a spoonful to a quart 
of water will be sufficient to make the lace like new. Many people prefer to 
use sugar, but, if great care is not taken, there is a tendency to brown the lace 
when an iron is used. 

Gum arable is also a good stiffening agent, only a very small portion being 
required. As much as will remain on a sixpence, dissolved and added to two 
or three quarts of water, will give quite a good result. 

Finishing. 

If ironing is resorted to, it must not be done until the lace has been care- 
fully spread into shape, and is at least half dry. If ironed quite wet, it will 
look stiff and have an appearance of having been ironed, whereas the 
object in view is to prevent this. Lace that is fairly strong is improved by 
being pinned out while wet, so that all the points are clearly defined without 
having a dragged appearance ; in fact, quite frail pieces have been treated 
in this manner, but great caution is necessary in placing each pin in the lace. 
When it is nearly dry, remove the pins, use a small iron with extreme care, 
and lightly press the pattern from the wrong side. Care must be taken that 
the point of the iron does not crack the fine threads. 

A good plan to preserve the result obtained, after the foregoing processes 
have been gone through, is to wrap the lace round a pad of blue tissue paper, 
which will help both to prevent its getting creased, and to retain its freshness 
of colour. 



154 LAUNDRY WORK 

Fabric and Washing Leather Gloves. 

The washing water should be prepared as for flannels, and the gloves 
carefully rubbed in it. If the size permits, a better result can be obtained 
if they are put on the hands of the worker and are rubbed together in this 
way. The tips of the fingers may require a little extra soap rubbed on, as 
these parts are usually soiled and stained. Clear, warm water should be used 
for rinsing, and the gloves well opened to allow it to flow through them. 

The superfluous moisture should be removed in a cloth, both on account 
of the fastenings, and because the wringer causes creases which do not always 
disappear in drying. When hanging to dry, the fingers should be opened as much 
as possible, and the tops pinned to a cloth, so that the gloves have not a 
line-mark across the back, through being folded over while wet. 

Wash-leather and Castor gloves should be moved about while drying, or 
they will shrink and harden. It is best to place them on the hands when about 
half dry, and gently ease the material into shape. In many cases, if they 
are allowed to dry while in one position, they will shrink, become hard, and 
in fact, be completely spoilt. 

If gloves are carefully dried, there is no need to use an iron for pressing, 
even for the cotton ones ; but if ironing is resorted to for the latter, a very 
cool one should be used, and only a very light pressure, so that there are no 
creases down the fingers, and on the back. 

It must be distinctly understood that leather gloves of any kind should not 
be ironed, and that all kinds should be kept on the right side throughout 
the process. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

WASHING AND FINISHING "EIDER DOWNS," WADDED 
DRESSING GOWNS, AND WOOLLEN COATS 

Eider Down Quilts. 

When contemplating the washing of an eider down quilt, it is necessary to 
take into consideration the whole process, from start to finish For a really 
good result it is necessary to attend to it at intervals, especially throughout 
the drying process. ' ^ 

The water for washing should be prepared as for flannels. If the covering 
material is made of fairly bright colours, attention must be paid to this pre- 
vious directions for the treatment of colours being followed carefully ' No 
soap must be rubbed on ; therefore the water must have sufficient soap added 
before the article is immersed. Providing the " eider down " is not extremely 
soiled, it is best to use only one washing water, the clearing being done in the 
rinsing. ° 

The texture of the covering of these articles is very often such as will not 
permit of rough handling, and the very action of squeezing out even one extra 
water wll often make just the difference between success and failure 
Both sides of the cover must be attended to, and the best plan is to lay it on 
a board piece by piece, and rub well into the material with the palm of the 
hand. In this way the soapy water is well worked in, and when rinsed out 
takes the dirt with it. 

It must be distinctly understood that " eider downs " should not be soaked 
tor any length of time in any of the waters used. 

When sure that the cover is perfectly clean, squeeze as much of the soapy 
water out as possible. It is best to lift the quilt carefully out of the water 
on to a board laid across the bath or tank, and just press well on to it Quite 
a lot of the soapy water can be removed in this way. 

According to the covering material, the rinse water should have previously 
been prepared, and the article can now be immersed. Rub lightly and then 
squeeze as much of this first rinse water out as possible. The second rinse 
tollows, and the clearing is thus complete. 

" Eider downs " should not be put through a wringer, for, however carefuUy 
this may be done, the material is almost bound to burst a little in places where 
the down may have moved into a lump. The best plan is to squeeze well by 
pressing down (as previously directed), allow it to drain for a few minutes 
and repeat this process several times. 

If the colours are fairly safe, so much trouble need not be taken in 

155 



156 LAUNDRY WORK 

removing the last water, but if tliey appear " loose," and have tinted the 
water at all, every effort must be made to remove as much as possible before 
drying. To absorb the moisture, roll the " eider down " in some cloths for 
a short time ; the colours will then look much brighter and fresher than if any 
quantity of water is left in to evaporate in the air. 

Before the quilt is hung to dry, it must be very carefully shaken, but at 
this stage no effort should be made to get the down even. If the quilt is dried 
out of doors, and the wind is not very high, peg up carefully by two corners ; 
if very windy, place the cover in halves over the line. As the article is drying 
it should be taken down, shaken, and hung in a different position several times. 
In this way the down will gradually be shaken back into its proper position, 
and as it becomes nearly dry, the shakings can be a little more vigorous. 

If indoor drying has to be resorted to, the article should not be subjected 
to too great a heat, or the result will not be nearly so good. 

After the cover is absolutely dry, spread it out flat. If the only table 
available is not large enough, lay some clean paper or a sheet on the floor, so 
that all the cover can be seen at once. Now beat it carefully with a cane, 
or with the palms of the hands, or a clean cane carpet-beater may be satis- 
factorily used. This process will be found to make the down very fluffy, 
thereby rendering the quilt even and thick. 

When it is of fairly uniform thickness, procure a warm iron and lightly 
pass it over, without using any actual pressure. This is done to prevent the 
material from having a rough-dry appearance. 

If there is a frill, it must be properly ironed, and can be slightly damped 
with a small wet cloth as it is proceeded with. After all parts are smooth 
and even, it must again be put to air ; the more shaking and moving about 
it now receives, the thicker and lighter will the " eider down " feel. 

Wadded Garments. 

A few hints with regard to the washing of wadded dressing-gowns may be 
useful here. Colours must again be taken into consideration, and rinse waters 
prepared accorchngly. In this case, get ready one very soapy, cool washing 
water, and two rinses of the same temperature. 

Very carefully immerse the dressing-gown in the soapy water, and do not 
hft it up and down vigorously. This is most important throughout, as if any 
part of the wadding is once broken, the gown will be utterly spoilt. If any 
parts, such as neck band, wristbands, or bottom hem, are badly soiled, they 
must be laid flat on a board, and rubbed with the palm of the hand, in fact 
it is best to treat all parts of the garment in this way, on both sides. 
Squeezing between the hands, as for flannels, will be hable to break the 
wadding. When turning the sleeves to attend to the wrong side, draw them 
through slowly and carefully. 

After all parts are quite clean, lift the garment from the water by putting 



WASHING AND FINISHING " EIDER DOWNS," ETC. 157 

the hands underneath, and raising the whole thing at once. Do not drag 
it out of the water a piece at a time, or this also will break the wadding. 
Squeeze the soap out by pressing down heavily (as directed for " eider down ") 
and immerse in the first rinse. Again no rubljing must occur, the garment 
being only just moved carefully under the water. 

Lift it out at once in the same way as from the soapy water, and repeat 
this in the second rinse. Squeeze as much of the water out as possible by 
pressing, and then absorb the rest bv rolling in cloths. 




Fig. 146. 



Have a cloth ready on the table, carefully lift the gown on to it, spread 
the back part out, and lay another cloth on this, and bring one-half of the 
front over, and cover with another piece of cloth. Then place the second half 
front over, so that there is an alternate cloth and fold of dressing-gown 



158 LAUNDRY WORK 

throughout. Now lay a cloth again on the top of this, and spread the sleeves 
without dragging them. The collar will also require putting into shape. 

In placing all the parts, see that the shape of the garment is correct ; the 
bottom hems should be put into a straight line, the fronts arranged as they 
ought to look when finished, the sleeves carefully put into position, and the 
collar spread out to its correct shape. 

When the dressing-gown is properly placed, roll it up firmly in the cloths. 
Not only are the intervening ones necessary to absorb the moisture, but in 
case of the lining being of a different colour from the outside, the rolling will 
prevent one colour from staining the other. If it is necessary repeat this 
process with another set of dry cloths, care being taken all the time that the 
wadding does not get broken. 

In drying, spread the gown out as straight as possible. If two lines are 
available side by side, hang one half front over the first, so that the side seam 
rests on the line, the other half front on the second line in just the same way, 
then allow the sleeves to hang down between the two lines, so that the 
back part of gown is spread out nearly straight. In Fig. 146 a dressing-jacket 
has been similarly hung, but as there are no long side seams, the method 
has simply been indicated. In this way the weight is fairly evenly divided 
in all parts. Do not allow the sleeves to rest on the back part as it hangs 
on the lines, or they will make a disfiguring mark on the part on which they 
rest. 

When the gown is quite dry, a fairly cool iron can be used for pressing. 
It should be passed lightly over both right and wrong sides, after which the 
garment is placed on a " shoulder " to air. 

Knitted Coats. 

The foregoing directions will be found quite suitable for washing knitted 
woollen coats, these being articles that require the same amount of attention 
and care as to shaping, etc. 

Many people are of opinion that woollen coats do not wash successfully, 
simply because they have been unfortunate enough to have had one carelessly 
done. The whole secret of the process is in the actual handling and shaping. 

In putting a coat into the water, care must be taken that it is not rubbed 
" in parts." The whole thing must be squeezed and kept together, so that 
the weight of one part is not dragging on another. In lifting out of each 
water, care must again be taken not to drag the article, and it mtist not be 
wrung, even with the hands. Squeeze as much water out as possible by 
pressing on to a board, keeping the whole thing in a heap, and on the wrong 
side. Have cloths ready to lay the garment on, and spread out as for the 
wadded gown. 

Great care must be taken with the bottom edge, to keep it straight and 
even, the corners being laid quite square. The sleeves also will need to be 



WASHING AND FINISHING "EIDER DOWNS," ETC. 159 

placed, so that they are of the correct length. If they appear to have stretched 
in the water, ease them both carefully widthways, so that some of the length 
is taken up. The pocket mouths should be placed evenly, so that they do 
not have an appearance of sagging. {See Fig. 147.) The collar also will 




Fig. 147. 



require placing to correct shape. Now roll up, so that the cloths will absorb 
most of the moisture. 

Woollen coats must on no account be hung up to dry, but should be left 
spread on a board or table, otherwdse all the previous care and time spent 
will be thrown away. If the weather is good the coat can be laid outside 
on a cloth, still in the same position as directed. In any case, it must not 
be subjected to a great heat, or the wool will dry up stiff, and will not have a 
soft fluffy appearance or feeling. 

For business purposes, the use of a flat wire rack for drying these things 

is advisable. It should be fixed in a position suitable for the purpose, attention 

being paid to the amount of heat available, 60° F. to 70° F. being the highest 

temperature required. One corner of an airing room is often a convenient 

11— (035) 



160 LAUNDRY WORK 

spot, but in most laundries there will be some corner that is more suitable 
than another. 

It is best to turn the coat ov-er at least once while it is drying, so that the 
back is uppermost a part of the time. Do not force the drying of the coat, 
for it sometimes takes as long as two days to get completely dry, and the 
result is then quite good. 

As a rule it is stretching, and not shrinkage, that has to be looked for in 
these garments. Of course, if the coat has a tendency to " felt " in the water, 
the drying must be carried out more speedily, but still the same attention 
must be devoted to shaping. 

In steam laundries, where the use of a Hydro Extractor is to be obtained, 
rolling in cloths is unnecessary. The best plan is to lift the coat from the 
rinse water into a cloth, lay it in the " Hydro " without removing this, weight 
the other side of the Hydro with something that needs wringing, set the 
machine in motion, and run as for flannels. Do not lay the coat round the 
inner cage of the Hydro, but put it in, as it were, in a heap, or it will stretch as 
the speed increases. Wadded gowns should be wrung in like manner. 

Finishing. 

When the coat is perfectly dry, a very cool iron is needed for pressing. 
This process must be carried out with e.xtreme care, and should be done from 
the wrong side. The iron must not be rubbed up and down the coat, but 
just pressed and lifted, or the wool will appear stretched in places. 

Knitted Woollen Caps. 

These require equal care in the washing, and should be dried by filling 
the crown with a clean cloth, so that the correct shape is obtained. 

Some authorities advocate the use of a wooden block, or even an inverted 
basin, to dry these caps on, but a cloth will be found quite adequate, as it 
absorbs some of the moisture, and the cap has not quite such a fixed and 
stiff shape when finished. 



CHAPTER XIX 

WASHING AND FINISHING VELVETEENS 

Various classes and colours of plain and corduroy velveteens wash quite 
easily and successfully if the essential rules are carefully followed. Usually 
the colours are fairly " fast," therefore it is the texture that requires the most 
attention. 

Before commencing to wash the garment, it must be ascertained that 
a convenient place is available in which to hang it when it is rinsed. Wringing 
is not permissible : therefore the water will have to drain into some suitable 
vessel. 

The water should be of fairly cool temperature, with plenty of boiled 
soap added to make a lather. The garment is steeped in this, and lifted up 
and down several times so that the soapy water can flow through it. It is 
best to have ascertained the especially soiled parts before the article is put 
into the water, so that these can be attended to first. A brush must not be 
used, but friction can be applied with the palm of the hand, while the garment 
is spread out on an unpolished board or table. The material should on no 
account be rubbed between the hands, as this will tend to make the pile 
appear uneven when the finishing process is in hand. If the washing water 
loses its lather quickly, another soapy liquid should be prepared, and the 
same procedure followed a second time. 

When velveteen is taken from the water each time, it should not be wrung 
or squeezed in any way, but simply be lifted out, and allowed to drain. Two 
rinse waters will be necessary, and before it is removed from the last one, the 
worker should see that the place is ready in which the article is going to hang. 
Should it be a blouse, a frock, or anything which is conveniently placed on a 
" shoulder," this is an easy way of placing the garment to drain. 

Coat-hangers are sometimes painted or stained, in which case they will 
not serve for wet articles. Also if they are hung from a metal hook, this 
should be bound round, in case the extreme dampness should cause it to rust, 
and mark the article being dried. 

Supposing a skirt is being washed, it can be pinned by the band to a cloth, 
and allowed to drain in this\vay. In any case, pins must not be put into the 
wet material itself, or there will "be unsightly marks left. When the superfluous 
moisture has removed itself, the position of the article should be changed, so 
that distinct creases do not form in the hanging folds As the article is becoming 
dry, carefully shake it, for this will be found to assist the later processes. 

161 



162 LAUNDRY WORK 

Finishing Velveteen. 

For really good results, a very little moisture should have been left in the 
material, as in this way the steam caused by the heat of the iron applied 
to the wrong side will raise the pile, and give a velvety appearance when 
the ironing is finished. For large areas, the iron can be passed over the wrong 
side as in ordinary pressing, but it should not be used very vigorously, nor 
should too much heat be applied. On no account must any part of the right 
side be ironed, even with a cloth intervening. 

If there are any seams or small parts that are likely to show marks, stand 
an iron on the table, with the point up ; carefully hold the portion to be treated 
in the fingers of both hands, without gripping so firmly as to leave marks, 
and rub the wrong side of it on the side edge or tip of the iron. When 
finishing a velveteen garment, these small parts are best done before the 
larger whole is treated. 

After the steaming and pressing are finished, turn the garment on to the 
right side, and with the palm of the hand, or a clean velvet pad. rub the 
material up the right way, so that the pile shows glossy and even, and finally 
hang it on a shoulder to air. 

Finishing Velvet Ribbons. 

The washing is practically the same as for velveteen, except that the 
ribbon should invariably be laid on a flat board, and gently rubbed with the 
palm of the hand, al\va\-s in the same direction. When rinsing, hold one end 
of the piece of ribbon, and dip it in and out of the water several times. Next 
lay it on a cloth, right side up, so that the moisture is absorbed. 

The finishing can be carried out before the ribbon is dry, and should be 
done by standing a moderately hot iron point up, holding each end of the 
strip carefully in the fingers, and drawing the wrong side of it backwards and 
forwards firmly against the face of the iron. Should the ribbon be satin- 
backed, the iron will not injure this. The pile of the velvet is improved by 
being rubbed in the right direction. 



CHAPTER XX 

WASHING OR WET-CLEANING SERGE AND 
CLOTH GARMENTS 

It is necessary to understand one's work thoroughly before attempting to 
wash or clean serge and cloth garments, for the simple reason that, apart from 
the care required in treating the material, there is the make of the garment 
to be noted, and it is here that the majority of beginners fail. 

For instance, take a coat, a skirt, a suit, or even a pair of boy's knickers. 
If any one of these garments is dragged out of shape, it becomes unsightly, the 
fronts of the coat may be left hanging in a baggy, bulgy fashion, the seams 
of a skirt may be stretched, and hang unevenly, and the hems be left lumpy 
and only half pressed. 

However well the material will wash, it is not sufficient to " wet it out," 
and hang it to dry in the hope that it will come right in the end. Not only 
are time and patience required for these articles, but a certain amount of 
skill should have been obtained before an attempt is made on any of them. 
If the garments are not stiffened with inter-hning, it is much easier to obtain 
a good result. 

Cream serge skirts, knickers, etc., should be washed as ordinary flannels. 
Care should be taken with regard to the heat of the water, as there is always 
a tendency for cream serge to turn yellow and harsh-looking. 

Raw soap should not come into contact with the article. Sufficient should 
have been put in the water to have made a lather, previous to the garment 
being immersed. Light friction with a brush will not harm the edges of seams, 
wrong sides of hems, etc., but the actual surface of serge material must 
not be scrubbed. 

Rubbing must also be very carefully done, especially if there are any dirty 
parts that call for extra friction. Severe rubbing with a round motion between 
the hands is bound to cause the serge to shrink and " felt." A simple means 
to convince one of this is to procure two pieces of ordinary rough serge of the 
same size. Immerse them in the washing water prepared, do one quite care- 
fully, just squeezing in the correct manner, and submit the other piece to 
severe rubbing round and round. In the majority of cases, the latter piece, 
when dry, would be much smaller and harder than the former, especially if the 
material were well and closely woven. 

In the case of new serge or cloth, one is almost compelled to use two washing 
waters, the " newness " of the material rendering the first water very " dull " 
and useless, almost as soon as the garment is put into it. It is best in all cases 

163 



164 LAUNDRY WORK 

to use one's discretion in this, as if the material is free from " dress," one water 
may be sufficient, but on the other hand, it is very seldom that it can be made 
to look quite clear at the first time of washing without two soapy waters being 
used. Much depends on this first wash, for if the garment is once finished 
after being badly washed, however much effort is subsequently made, the 
result will never quite come up to what it ought to have been. 

When wetting serge coats, they should not be " lumped " together in the 
water if there is any stiffening in the fronts or shoulders. Again, they must 
not be soaked for any length of time. The best plan is to have a bench to lay 
the coat on after having wetted it out, and rub the soapy water well into the 
material with the palm of the hand. This is really quicker than keeping the 
garment in the water, as all parts can be seen at once, and there is not the 
tendency to go over the same ground more than is necessary. 

After attending to all parts of the coat in this way, lift it carefully back 
into the water, and rub without upsetting the lined parts. If a second soapy 
water has to be used, repeat the foregoing process. In rinsing see that the 
same care is exercised, and when wringing see that the collar and lapels are 
kept even. 

In the majority of cases, it is best to iron serge coats or skirts before they 
are dried. Sufficient moisture can be removed by rolling in cloths, it being 
possible to shape the articles much more carefully in this way than if they 
are hung in mid-air, when the water draining to the lower parts drags them 
out of shape. Again, the dampness is much more even after rolling, and there- 
fore the material will be free from uneven patches, which are bound to occur 
unless the articles are most carefully watched, and frequently turned while 
drying. 

Dark Serges. 

The same process of washing may be followed, but the colour will have 
to be taken into consideration. The colour of blue serge, for instance, has 
a distinct tendency to turn lighter when wetted, and in many cases it will 
take on a definite violet tinge. To assist in avoiding this the temperature 
of the water should be extremely low, the rinse water must be prepared at 
the same time as the washing water, a good measure of acetic acid added to 
each water to " set " the colour, and the utmost dispatch used throughout 
the process. It is of the utmost importance that the garment remain in the 
water only just so long as is absolutely necessary, even two or three minutes 
making a vast difference. Coloured serges, whether of hght or dark shades, 
should on no account be hung to dry, as this will render all the previous efforts 
futile. For various " setting " agents, see page 18. 

Finishing. 

For the successful finishing of serge and cloth garments, one very important 
point is that the face of the iron must not come into direct contact with the 



WET-CLEANING SERGE AND CLOTH GARMENTS 165 

right side of the material. If pressing on the wrong side does not give the 
desired " finish," the article must be pressed from the right side, with a damp 
cloth intervening between the material and the iron. 

Wet Cleaning. 

In many cases, when coats, for example, are scarcely soiled enough for 
washing, and yet are not perfectly fresh, it will be found sufficient and 
convenient to treat them as explained below. 

A clean unpolished table will be necessary, so that practically all parts ot 
the coat can be seen at once when it is spread for cleaning. 

Clean, warm, soft water is extremely useful for removing many kinds ot 
spots that may occur, but lump ammonia, previously dissolved in hot water, 
and cooled, will serve to remove many obstinate marks. Any kind of grease 
spots must be removed before moisture is used. If reference is made to 
pages 18 and 19, notes on the use of other cleaning agents will be found. 

The coat having been spread on the table right side uppermost, one or two 
clean soft rags, that are free from fluff, will be necessary. As little moisture 
should be used as possible. A fair amount of friction will be needed, with the 
cloth arranged in the form of a pad. It is best to proceed systematically, begin- 
ning with the collar and lapels opened out first, so that the soiled ridges may be 
cleaned. If the face of the material is at all shiny, a little ammonia in the 
water will assist in removing the gloss, but if the fabric is merely soiled, without 
being shiny, warm water alone is just as good. The cloth should be folded 
as a pad, dampened — not wrung out of the liquid — and applied vigorously 
to the material, the grain to he jollowed throughout the process. If the article 
proves to be fairly soiled, so that the pad becomes dirty, the latter must be 
cleaned occasionally, and the bowl of water changed if needed. 

It is both necessary and possible to clean a garment by this method, without 
really soaking it, for if too much water is conveyed by the pad, the trouble 
will be increased, and the result not nearly so good as it miglat be. 

Fine, smooth, light-coloured cloths are more satisfactory if treated by 
a " dry " process, and as has been previously stated, this should not be done by 
inexperienced persons in places not equipped for the use of inflammable spirits. 

Pressing the Coat. 

This process must follow as soon as possible after the foregoing directions 
have been carried out, the coat being placed as described on page 133, and a 
cloth used to cover the right side of the material the whole time. The iron should 
be of medium heat, and a firm even pressure given to all parts of the garment. 

For serges and cloth materials, a piece of woollen stuff used as a pressing 
cloth is beneficial, so long as it is clean and not linty, this helping to prevent 
white streaky marks being caused through pressure on seams and thick parts. 

Articles cleaned by the foregoing process should be thoroughly aired 
before being put away. 



CHAPTER XXI 

PACKING LAUNDERED ARTICLES 

Much can be accomplished towards preserving the freshness and smoothness 
of linen that has been laundered, if it is carefully and systematically packed 
away after it is aired. 

Household Linen. 

This will be found fairly easy to deal with, but if even " flat " articles are 
put into a cupboard or drawers with the edges curled up and uneven, much 
of the result of previous labour is completely destroyed. Even plain articles 
are much more pleasant to use if they are fresh and free from unsightly creases 
when taken into use. 

If any quantity of linen has to be packed away regularly, and a cupboard 
is used for storing it, the shelves should be lined with some sort of wrappers, 
such as old towels, or pieces of any kind of material that can be washed occa- 
sionally. This assists in keeping the linen free from dust, which invariably 
filters through plain woodwork. 

Another means of keeping household linen in good condition, is to use it 
systematically, putting the freshlv laundered articles at the bottom of each 
pile, so that all get used in turn. Otherwise those left over from week to week 
will become brown at the edges and folds, and in course of time this brown- 
ness becomes permanent, and the creases become so fixed as to cause the linen 
to split when it is used and washed. 

Table linen is especially apt to rot at the folds through the dust and air 
being allowed to come into contact with it This is partly on account of the 
measure of stiffening which has been used. 

Lace D'oyleys and tray cloths preserve their freshness much longer if 
thin paper is laid between them, quite an excellent plan being to keep them 
in a small cardboard box by themselves. 

Should the cupboard or shelves used for storing linen be near hot pipes, 
or a hot water tank, it is adv-isable to remove the linen occasionally, as there 
is always a tendency for it to get discoloured as a result of being constantly 
in a heated atmosphere. 

Wearing Apparel and Fancy Articles. 

Although these necessarily require more care in packing away, there is 
no reason why they should not look perfectly fresh and free from creases, if 
sufficient trouble is taken at the proper time. Here again, thin blue paper 

166 



PACKING 



167 



■will be found extremely useful, both for preserNang the colour and for helping 
to prevent the formation of unsightly creases. 

As a rule body linen, when folded neatly, is no trouble to store, and it is 
quite possible to place a considerable number of articles one on top of another, 
and yet bring them out quite neat when required for use. With a little extra 
attention, blouses, frocks, pinafores, etc., need lose none of their smoothness 
and daintiness through being stored. 




Fig. 148. 



Blouses. 

Place a half sheet of tissue paper inside the body part of the blouse, and 
lay the front as flat as possible on this. Some people prefer to leave the 




Fig. 149. 



168 LAUNDRY WORK 

blouse undone, while others find it easier to manage with some of the fastenings 
done up. Invariably the front is much larger than the back, so a fold should 
be made as in Fig. 148, care being taken that its inner edge is placed well towards 
the under arm. Next take the seam of the sleeve lightly in the thumb and 
finger of each hand, and bring it over another half sheet of paper, as in Fig. 149. 
A piece of paper, folded and placed inside the sleeves, helps to prevent the 
formation of creases if the sleeves are fairly full. The blouse photographed 
here had been packed away with other wearing apparel for 18 months after 
being " got up," and still it needed no retouching, being in quite a wearable 
condition. 

Skirts. 

Linen and serge skirts can be treated as shown in Fig. 150, each fold having 
a sheet of paper between it and the next. This folding will be found preferable 
to hanging these garments after they are well aired, as less creases result. 




Fig. 150. 

It has been proved that fancy wearing apparel will retain its freshness for 
months, if packed away in this manner, and in fact, the need for " roughing " 
fine articles, that is to say, leaxdng them unstarched and rough dry when 
not in use, is practically done away with altogether. 

Flannel Trousers. 

Fig. 151 shows trousers folded in like manner, which will be found 
advantageous when the need for storing them occurs. It should scarcely be 



PACKING 



169 



necessary to impress further the need for thoroughly airing all classes of linen 
and wearing apparel before it is packed away, even though it is likely to be 
used again quite soon. The least dampness left in flannel or woollen articles 
will cause them to become hard, and allow the shrinkage to continue. 



Fi'S?.'?'S'*iU'V4 




Instances have been known where coloured articles have been packed 
away without being aired after ironing, and the colours have " run," and have 
completely spoiled the articles themselves, and other things which have been 
in contact with them. Unaired starched clothes lose their crispness if stored 
thus, and become limp and unattractive-looking. 



CHAPTER XXII 

TRADE NOTES ON PACKING 

Too much importance cannot be attached to this department in any laundry, 
whatever the size of the business may be. There is considerable diversity of 
opinion with regard to the quantity of wort: one packer should be able to turn 
out. One has heard it said that a packer should not be made responsible for 
the sorting, packing, and sending out of more than about £\2 worth of work 
per week, while it is known to be possible for two capable packers to turn out 
£50 worth quite easily. 

One class of work is naturally much simpler to sort and pack than another, 
and therefore much depends on whether the trade consists of " Shop," 
" Contract," or small or large " Family " work. 

It is certainly extremely unwise to understaff the sorting and packing- 
rooms, but on the other hand, apart from the fact that those responsible for 
the business cannot afford to pay an undue amount of wages, too many 
workers in this department are apt to get in one another's way, gossiping is more 
difficult to check, and naturally mistakes occur which otherwise would never 
have arisen. 

When discussing ihe question of sorting-rooms, the need for tidiness has 
already been suggested. Although this is necessary in all departments of 
every laundry, successful results in the packing-room absolutely depend on 
it. It is quite impossible to be accurate if racks, tables, and the room 
generally, are kept in a disorderly state. 

Before commencing to " rack up " the fresh work, the packers should see 
that their room is swept and free from rubbish, which is bound to accumulate 
if the sorting is done in the same department. 

If the racks are not permanently labelled with the customers' names and 
marks, it is a good plan to cut small squares of white cardboard, and write 
name and mark clearly and boldly on each one and attach these to the racks 
before commencing. In fact this latter plan has been proved the best in any 
case, for small customers do not always send work every week, and in that 
event a rack need not be spared for them. 

A few minutes spent before dealing with each " journey " in planning the 
number of spaces required, according to the quantity of books in that journey, 
will greatly facilitate the accuracy of this part of tlie work. It is often found 
that packers do not do this, and possibly more than one rack, or part of one, 
is allowed for one customer, even though only a small one. Conseq^uently 
other work has to be put into too small a space, and is then necessarily not 
in a fit condition to be returned to the customer. 

170 



TRADE NOTES ON PACKING 171 

Another important precaution is to have a space kept solely for articles 
that have passed through unmarked. Otherwise these may be examined 
for a mark by the packer, and be just cast aside. Later, when the packing 
is commenced, and possibly an owner for these articles could be found, they 
cannot be traced, simply because there has been no special place in which 
to keep them. 

Every assistance should be given to the workers to enable them to rack 
the work systematically. Flat work of any description should be pushed 
forward, so that this enters the department in ample time to receive first 
attention. Really good packers are often spoiled through the system employed 
not being a good one. Some of the very well equipped laundries, that have 
managers or proprietors who realise the need for these particular points, are 
sometimes accused of being fond of " red tape," but one may venture to suggest 
that these accusations are invariably made by people who have to pay the 
largest amount of compensation for " shorts." 

There is absolutely no need for this to be such a formidable item, even 
granting that many customers are extremely trying to deal with, and often 
fall very far short of the truth as to the value and the number of articles 
returned to them from the laundry ; but one is bound to confess that, to a 
certain extent, this condition of things has been brought about by the 
launderers themselves. 

It is hardly necessary to emphasize the fact that customers' books and lists 
should not be allowed to He about loosely on the tables in a packing-room. 
They should be kept tied in a bundle until the packing is commenced. Many 
people prefer the books put in the racks with the hnen, but if each packer 
has her parcel of books given to her at the commencement, she is more likely 
to dispatch her portion of the journey accurately, than if the books are racked 
up with the work. It may be that tlie work of a larger number of customers is 
racked than will need to be packed and dispatched in one load. Therefore 
it is possible for the wrong ones to be packed first, and others to be delayed that 
ought to have gone, because the books are not easily to hand to refer to. In 
putting the books in the racks, also, it is possible for them to slip in between 
articles, which have to be turned about to find them, while lists on paper are 
apt to be blown about, and get lost. 

The best time to make out the carman's " journey book " is after racking,, 
before the packing of each journey is commenced. If it is done at this 
stage, there is far "less hkelihood of hampers or parcels being left behind, 
and causing needless worry. The book can then be checked off as the 
carman loads his van, this acting as a check on the number of hampers 
taken by him. 

When commencing to pack the hampers, it is essential that the articles 
taken from the racks should be re-examined for marks as they are being laid 
out for " checking off." It is only too easy to place the article in the wrong 



172 LAUNDRY WORK 

rack in the first instance, and therefore if this extra examination is insisted on 
the shorts will be greatly minimised. 

Packers are apt to become familiarised with the customers' articles, and 
deem this careful inspection unnecessary. Those who are well acquainted 
with the business, know how very valuable this knowledge of customers' work 
is, but on the other hand, carefulness must be added to smartness, to ensure 
accuracy. 

Far and away the best plan is to make each packer always responsible for 
her own certain customers. Not only do the girls take more interest in their 
work in this way, but it is much simpler for the proprietor to ascertain the real 
facts of the case, if inquiries or complaints are made by customers. 

The number of hampers for which she is made responsible will depend 
on the quantity of linen sent by her set of customers, but modern laundry 
baskets, even at their largest, would seem to differ considerably from those 
of Shakespeare's day, when the Merry Wives of Windsor contrived to include 
among their linen an addition so ponderous as the person of the " Merry 
Knight," Falstaff. 



THE EXD 



Printed bv Sir Isaac Pitman & Sous, Ltd., Bath 
'J— (63'1 



